How do I drill a hole in glass without cracking it?
The wet, slow, no-pressure technique for bottles, sheet glass and mirrors — and the far more important question of whether the glass may be drilled at all.
Practical answers for repairs, cleaning, decorating and the household problems that turn up whether you planned for them or not. Written so you can start with what you already own.
2,154 guides
The wet, slow, no-pressure technique for bottles, sheet glass and mirrors — and the far more important question of whether the glass may be drilled at all.
Why stainless goes glass-hard under a rubbing bit, and the speed, pressure and cutting fluid that stop it happening.
Three constructions that replace a calculator: the angled rule for dividing an awkward width, the two-chord method for the centre of a circle, and the mark-from-both-ends trick for a centre line.
Templating so the factory cuts the holes in the right place, why the wall has to be flat, and fixing with silicone rather than screws.
Choosing an anchor that matches the chain, getting the fixing into something that will actually hold, and the mistakes that leave an anchor stronger than its own fixings.
Getting the washer stack the right way round, why the sealant goes under the flange and not on the thread, and connecting an overflow that actually works.
Why a wall needs a coping, the overhang and drip that make it work, and bedding and jointing copings so they do not lift or crack.
Setting a haunched edge to a line and a level so it holds the surface in, and choosing between concrete kerb, timber, metal and pegged edging.
Scribing a plank to a curve or an angled bay so the gap behind is consistent, the expansion gap survives, and the beading covers what it needs to.
How the clips work, cutting the plinth to length and around a leg, scribing to an uneven floor, and the seal at the bottom that keeps water out of the board.
Where a vent can safely be cut, sizing it by equivalent area, and the through-frame or over-frame options that avoid cutting at all.
Setting the first upright plumb and working across, choosing bracket size against shelf depth, and why the top screw of each upright is the one that matters.
Choosing the mesh, straining it properly, and closing the gap at the bottom that most dogs find within a week.
Why a uPVC or timber casement sags at the outer corner, and the different repair for each — because a uPVC casement has no hinges to adjust.
Packing and refixing a frame that moves when the door closes, without pulling it out of plumb in the process.
Working out whether the sag is the cushion, the webbing, the springs or a broken frame rail, and which of those is worth repairing at home.
The three things that make a lever go slack — a loose backnut, a broken lever arm and a detached link — and which of them is worth repairing.
Diagnosing whether the wobble is the furniture or the floor, and fixing loose joints so they stay fixed.
Why coving drops at the top edge, refixing it without taking the whole run down, and the mechanical fixings that stop it happening again.
Hard stone, soft stone and rubble-filled walls behave completely differently. How to find out which you have, and the fixing method each one needs.
What is actually inside a hollow door, where the solid lock block sits, and the fixings that hold in 4mm of facing.
The three ways a concealed cistern is meant to be reached, what the flush plate hides, and how to make a proper access hatch if the installer left none.
New furniture smell is solvent and adhesive off-gassing, and it goes with time and air — which means ventilation and patience rather than any product.
Turning a design into a cutting list and a sheet layout — kerf, grain direction, trim margins, useful offcuts, and how to work out how many sheets you actually need.
Material properties, comparisons and suitability — paints, fillers, sealants, timber, tile, insulation.
MaterialWorld is in development — GuideHQ covers the practical answers in the meantime.