When should I start sowing seeds?
Working backwards from your last frost date rather than from the calendar, and why sowing early is the commonest mistake.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
Working backwards from your last frost date rather than from the calendar, and why sowing early is the commonest mistake.
Growing tomatoes from seed or plug to harvest — sowing times, potting on, feeding, pinching out side shoots and avoiding the common diseases.
Which species drop and which do not, the cut that lets it drink, and the watering routine that decides everything.
Where to get a frost date for your part of the country, what the two dates actually mean statistically, and how to turn them into the two numbers every sowing and planting decision counts back from.
Reducing what needs watering before you go, the automatic and passive options, and the plants worth asking a neighbour about.
Which herbs are easy, what each one actually wants, and how to keep a windowsill or pot going all year.
A fortnight away in August is what kills more containers than any drought. The preparation that genuinely works, ranked by how long it buys you and how much it costs.
Telling a side shoot from a flower truss and a leaf, where the shoot actually grows, and the plants you must not do this to at all.
The four separate things that can stop you felling a tree — a preservation order, a conservation area, a planning condition and a felling licence — and how to check each before you commit to anything.
How to set up a compost heap that works — the greens-to-browns balance, what to include, and why most heaps fail.
The general position on the right of abatement, the four limits on it that people routinely get wrong, and the sequence that keeps a hedge-trimming afternoon from becoming a legal dispute.
Two tests that settle it — the ribbon test in two minutes and the jar test overnight — plus what the answer changes about watering, feeding and what you can grow.
Why a growbag is the hardest place to grow a tomato, the watering rhythm that prevents splitting and blossom end rot, and when to switch feeds.
Excluding rather than killing, the specific answer for each of the common summer insects, and when it becomes a job for someone else.
Killing weeds while they are small, the difference annual and perennial makes, and why bare soil is the real problem.
Why they are a damp signal rather than a hygiene one, and why drying the room out ends it when spraying does not.
How to work out what kind of soil you have, and the organic matter approach that improves clay, sand and everything between.
Light, warmth and insects — the three things that decide whether a garden gets used after dark, in the order that matters.
Finding out what soil you have, adding organic matter, and why digging is usually the wrong instinct.
The temperature that decides the timing rather than the date, and why the first cut must be high.
The cutting windows for the common UK hedge species, why they differ, and the nesting-bird check that comes before all of them.
Reading the pattern of yellowing to tell watering problems from feeding problems from disease.
Splitting is caused by the change in water supply rather than the amount, plus the two crack patterns and which of them matters.
Runner beans need insects, moisture at the root and night temperatures below the mid-teens to set — which of the three you are missing, and what actually works.