How do I start composting?
How to set up a compost heap that works — the greens-to-browns balance, what to include, and why most heaps fail.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 2 hr
- Read
- 3 min
Short answer
Alternate roughly equal volumes of greens (kitchen scraps, grass clippings) and browns (cardboard, dry leaves, woody prunings), keep it as damp as a wrung-out sponge, and turn it occasionally. Most failed compost heaps are too wet and too green — the fix is more cardboard.
Composting is a controlled decomposition, and the organisms doing it need four things: carbon, nitrogen, air and moisture. Nearly every problem — slime, smell, or a heap that just sits there — is one of those four being wrong, and usually it's too much nitrogen and not enough air.
What you'll need
- Compost bin or a space for an open heap
- Garden fork for turning
- A source of browns — cardboard, dry leaves, shredded paper
- Bucket for kitchen scraps (optional)
Step by step
- Site the bin on soil rather than a hard surface, somewhere reasonably accessible.Contact with soil lets worms and organisms move in. Accessibility decides whether you actually use it.
- Start with a layer of coarse material — twigs or woody prunings — at the base.It lets air in from below, which most heaps lack.
- Add roughly equal volumes of greens and browns as you go.Greens: vegetable peelings, grass, coffee grounds, tea leaves. Browns: cardboard, dry leaves, paper, straw, small woody prunings.
- Tear cardboard into pieces rather than adding whole flattened boxes.Whole sheets form impermeable layers that block air and water.
- Keep it as damp as a wrung-out sponge.Too dry and nothing happens; too wet and it goes anaerobic and smells. Cover an open heap in heavy rain.
- Turn it every few weeks with a fork if you want it fast.Turning adds air, which is the main accelerator. An unturned heap still works — it just takes a year or more.
- Don't add cooked food, meat, fish or dairy to an open heap.They attract rats and smell. A closed hot bin or a bokashi system can handle them; an open heap can't.
- Use it when it's dark, crumbly and smells of earth — 6–12 months typically.It doesn't need to be perfectly uniform. Sieve out the big bits and put them back in the heap.
Tips
- Keep a bag or bin of torn cardboard next to the compost bin. The main reason heaps go wrong is that greens arrive daily and browns don't.
- Grass clippings alone will turn into a slimy anaerobic mat. Always mix them with plenty of browns.
- Two bins are much better than one: fill the first while the second matures.
- If it smells of ammonia, it needs browns and air. If it's dry and unchanged, it needs water and greens.
Common mistakes
- Too many greens — The commonest failure — slimy, smelly and anaerobic. Add cardboard and turn it.
- Adding whole flattened cardboard boxes — They mat into airtight layers. Tear them up first.
- Adding cooked food to an open heap — Attracts rats and produces smells the heap can't process.
- Never turning it and expecting fast results — It'll still compost, but over a year or more rather than months.
Questions people ask
What can't I compost?
Meat, fish, dairy and cooked food in an open heap (rats and smell); pet waste from cats and dogs; diseased plant material; and perennial weed roots such as bindweed unless your heap gets genuinely hot.
How long does compost take?
Six months to a year for a turned heap, one to two years for an untouched one. A hot bin managed carefully can produce usable compost in a few months.
Why does my compost smell?
It's gone anaerobic — too wet and too much green material. Turn it, add plenty of torn cardboard or dry leaves, and cover it from rain.