How do I start composting?
How to set up a compost heap that works — the greens-to-browns balance, what to include, and why most heaps fail.
The part of gardening that decides everything else.
87 guides in Garden
How to set up a compost heap that works — the greens-to-browns balance, what to include, and why most heaps fail.
Two tests that settle it — the ribbon test in two minutes and the jar test overnight — plus what the answer changes about watering, feeding and what you can grow.
How to work out what kind of soil you have, and the organic matter approach that improves clay, sand and everything between.
Finding out what soil you have, adding organic matter, and why digging is usually the wrong instinct.
What each type is actually formulated for, why garden soil fails in pots, and the peat-free products that behave differently.
The volume sum, the conversion into bulk bags and 50-litre bags, and the settlement allowance that stops you ordering a third too little.
Why wood fibre and bark dry pale on the surface while the middle of the pot is still wet, and the watering change that fixes it.
Peat-free is a technique change, not a downgrade — six habits built on peat that give poor results with wood fibre and bark, and what to do instead.
The green and brown lists, the surprising items that are fine, and the small number of things that genuinely must not go in.
Aminopyralid and clopyralid residues pass through animals and survive composting — how they reach a garden, what the damage looks like, and why nothing about the manure warns you.
What can safely go in the bottom of a deep planter, what must never go in, how much compost depth you have to keep, and the mistake that turns a bulk-filled planter into a bog.
Why a trickle-fed bin never heats up, and how to build a heap in one go that reaches 60°C and is finished in a few months.
Where reused compost is fine, where it quietly loses you a season, and how to recondition a heap of it so it is worth using again.
The cardboard-and-compost method from measuring out to planting the same day — including the edge detail and the weeds that defeat it.
What mulch does for water, weeds and soil, which material to use where, and the mistakes that make it counterproductive.
What is actually under new turf — a machinery pan, subsoil and rubble, with 50mm of imported topsoil on top — and the order to fix it in.
Why acidifying open chalky ground does not work, why the container route does, and the watering and feeding regime that keeps a pot acid year after year.
Working with clay rather than against it — organic matter, timing, and what genuinely does not help.
The N-P-K numbers, the trace element list, the application rate and the form — four pieces of information that between them tell you what a product does and whether it is good value.
What actually attracts rats to a heap, the physical changes that exclude them, and why the usual folk deterrents do nothing.
What no-dig actually involves, where it genuinely saves work and where it does not, and how to start a bed without digging.
A feeding year that separates the three completely different regimes — open ground, containers, and things you want to flower and fruit — plus the date after which nitrogen does harm.
The green-to-brown balance, moisture and air — diagnosing which one is missing from what the heap looks and smells like.
Working out why water sits, and the range of responses from improving the soil to planting for the conditions.