How do I tell if my soil is compacted?
The screwdriver test, the spade test and the four surface signs — plus how to find the depth of the problem, which decides what you do about it.
The part of gardening that decides everything else.
87 guides in Garden
The screwdriver test, the spade test and the four surface signs — plus how to find the depth of the problem, which decides what you do about it.
The bean bioassay: three pots, three weeks, and a definite answer on a load of manure, straw or compost before it goes anywhere near your vegetable beds.
Taking a sample that means something, reading the result, and the realistic limits of what you can change in an open garden.
What each material physically is, what job it does, and the one that fills a raised bed versus the one that feeds a border.
Tomato feed is a high-potash liquid and it works on far more than tomatoes — which plants want it, at what point in their year, and the two situations where it does harm.
The look, feel and smell of finished compost, the cress test that settles it, and what immature compost does to plants if you use it too early.
Four things you can read from a single spadeful — structure, colour, roots and life — and what each of them is actually telling you to change.
How to turn grams per square metre into something you can actually measure without scales, how to work out what a bed needs, and why half strength twice as often beats guessing.
In a planted border, no — it fails within three years and leaves a mess that outlasts the planting. The three places it genuinely belongs, and what to do instead.
Why multipurpose compost kills drought-adapted plants in containers, the grit proportion that fixes it, and the different mix each of the common Mediterranean plants actually wants.
Confirming it, deciding between removal and waiting, what you can safely grow in the meantime, and the honest timescale for the bed coming back.
What each mulch material is actually good at, where each one is the wrong choice, and the depth that decides whether any of them works.
Four specific things go wrong when small seed meets a coarse mix — poor contact, surface drying, nitrogen drawdown and over-rich multipurpose — and each has a direct fix.
What the grades actually mean, the questions that separate a good supplier from a bad one, and the twenty minutes of inspection on delivery that saves you a decade of trouble.
Why sandy soil loses both water and nutrients, the materials that actually hold onto them, and the planting and feeding regime that suits it.
Three different depths of compaction and the different tool each one needs — plus the biological route that fixes it permanently while the mechanical one only buys time.
The site histories that raise a real question, what a home test can and cannot tell you, and the practical measures that let you grow food safely on ground you are unsure about.
What the cloud of flies actually is, why it means the heap is out of balance rather than diseased, and the two changes that clear it in a week.
It lifts roots out of the wet, which is often exactly enough — but it removes no water at all, and there are three situations where it changes nothing.
Which weeds go straight on the heap, which need drowning first, and which must never go near it at all — sorted by what actually survives a cold garden heap.
On the surface, effectively no. Dug in, badly — and the difference is entirely about how much of the wood is in contact with soil.
Bone meal, mycorrhizal fungi, compost and fertiliser assessed one at a time — and why a hole full of lovely compost in heavy soil is one of the commonest ways to kill a new shrub.
pH does not feed a plant — it decides whether the food already in the soil can be reached. Which is why the fix for yellow leaves on chalk is not more fertiliser.
Six kitchen-waste garden remedies assessed honestly — what each one genuinely contributes, which claims are wrong, and where they all belong instead.