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How do I fit wire mesh fencing to keep a dog in?

Choosing the mesh, straining it properly, and closing the gap at the bottom that most dogs find within a week.

Difficulty
beginner
Time
3 hr
Read
3 min

Short answer

Use welded or woven mesh with a spacing smaller than the dog's head, strain it between straining posts with a line wire top and bottom, and either bury 150mm of mesh or turn an L of mesh outwards along the ground to stop digging.

A slack fence is a failed fence. Mesh that has not been strained sags, and a sagging mesh is easy to push under, climb or lift. Almost all the work is in the two straining posts and the tension between them.

What you'll need

  • Welded or woven wire mesh of an appropriate gauge
  • Straining posts for each end and corner, plus struts
  • Intermediate posts at 2-3m centres
  • Line wire and straining bolts or a wire strainer
  • Fencing staples and pliers

Step by step

  1. Choose the mesh by the animal, not by price.Mesh spacing should be smaller than the dog's head can pass through, and small enough that paws cannot get a grip for climbing. Welded mesh is stiffer and holds shape; woven or chain link is cheaper but sags more easily.
  2. Set straining posts at both ends and every corner.These carry all the tension. They need to be bigger than the intermediate posts, set deeper, and strutted back along the line of the fence. Everything depends on them.
  3. Set intermediate posts at 2-3m centres.They only support the mesh, so they can be lighter, but they must be in line and plumb.
  4. Run and strain a line wire top and bottom.The wires take the tension so the mesh does not have to. Strain them tight between the straining posts using a wire strainer, then staple to the intermediates.
  5. Hang and tension the mesh against the line wires.Unroll along the fence, fix one end to a straining post, then pull the roll taut before fixing the other end. Tie the mesh to the line wires with wire ties every 300mm or so.
  6. Deal with the bottom edge deliberately.Either bury 150mm of mesh in a trench, or fold 300mm of mesh outwards along the ground surface and peg it down so a digging dog hits mesh immediately. The outward L is easier and works as well.
  7. Staple to intermediates without over-driving.Staples should hold the wire against the post but still let it move slightly. Hammering staples in hard cuts the galvanising and the wire rusts through at every post.
  8. Walk the line and test it.Push at the bottom edge every couple of metres. Anywhere it gives is where the dog will go. Fix those points before trusting the fence.

Tips

  • Strain the mesh on a cool day if you can. Wire tensioned in hot weather goes slack in a heatwave and tight in frost, but starting cool leaves the right margin.
  • A single strand of line wire pulled tight along the bottom, 50mm above ground, stops most pushing-under before it starts.
  • Galvanised mesh rusts first where it is cut or bent. Touch cut ends up with a zinc-rich paint.

Common mistakes

  • Relying on intermediate posts to take the strain — They pull out of line or lean. Only strutted straining posts at ends and corners can carry the tension of a strained fence.
  • Fixing mesh only at the top — The bottom lifts and the dog is out in a day. The bottom edge needs a line wire, ties and either burial or an outward L.

If it doesn't work

Mesh sagging between posts

Cause: Not strained, or line wires slack — Fix: Retension the line wires at the straining post — the mesh follows them. Adding intermediate posts does not fix slack tension.

Dog digging under at one point

Cause: Bottom edge unrestrained on soft ground — Fix: Lay an outward apron of mesh pegged to the ground for a metre either side of the spot.

Straining post pulling inwards

Cause: No strut, or strut set at the wrong angle — Fix: Add a strut running back along the fence line to a footing, meeting the post about two-thirds of the way up.

Questions people ask

Is chain link or welded mesh better for a dog run?

Welded mesh holds its shape and resists chewing and climbing better. Chain link is cheaper and more forgiving of uneven ground but sags and can be pushed out of shape.

How high does a dog fence need to be?

It depends entirely on the dog. 1.2m stops most; determined jumpers and climbers need 1.8m and sometimes an inward-facing top section. The bottom edge matters more than the height for most escapes.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.