How do I fit or refit a kitchen plinth?
How the clips work, cutting the plinth to length and around a leg, scribing to an uneven floor, and the seal at the bottom that keeps water out of the board.
Fixing the things that break — taps, handles, holes, hinges.
553 guides in Home & DIY
How the clips work, cutting the plinth to length and around a leg, scribing to an uneven floor, and the seal at the bottom that keeps water out of the board.
Setting the first upright plumb and working across, choosing bracket size against shelf depth, and why the top screw of each upright is the one that matters.
Why a uPVC or timber casement sags at the outer corner, and the different repair for each — because a uPVC casement has no hinges to adjust.
Packing and refixing a frame that moves when the door closes, without pulling it out of plumb in the process.
Working out whether the sag is the cushion, the webbing, the springs or a broken frame rail, and which of those is worth repairing at home.
The three things that make a lever go slack — a loose backnut, a broken lever arm and a detached link — and which of them is worth repairing.
Diagnosing whether the wobble is the furniture or the floor, and fixing loose joints so they stay fixed.
Why coving drops at the top edge, refixing it without taking the whole run down, and the mechanical fixings that stop it happening again.
Hard stone, soft stone and rubble-filled walls behave completely differently. How to find out which you have, and the fixing method each one needs.
What is actually inside a hollow door, where the solid lock block sits, and the fixings that hold in 4mm of facing.
The three ways a concealed cistern is meant to be reached, what the flush plate hides, and how to make a proper access hatch if the installer left none.
Both boards drink glue out of the joint through their cut edges, so the standard PVA technique that works on timber gives a starved, weak joint here.
Why glass is chemically easy and mechanically unforgiving to bond, the three adhesive families that work on it, and the ones that leave a visible line for ever.
Scribing a door to a lining that is not plumb or square, deciding whether to correct the frame or the door, and getting a consistent gap when nothing in the opening is straight.
Closing the opening properly with a vent, dealing with the hearth, and getting the plaster to meet the old wall without a visible panel — plus the boundary where this stops being a DIY job.
Squaring out the damage, keying and priming, choosing between repair mortar and a screed, and getting the patch level with the floor.
Patching a hole in an old wall so it does not crack around the edge — why plasterboard is usually the right patch material, and how to deal with the depth difference.
Why paper tape blisters and scrim cracks, cutting out only what has failed, and re-taping so the repair does not show as a ridge.
Cutting out the decayed section of a frame leg and splicing in new timber, and when resin repair is the better answer.
Removing the old pane and putty safely, measuring for the replacement, and bedding the new glass so it does not rattle or leak.
The three gaskets on a uPVC window, which one causes which symptom, and fitting a replacement without stretching it or disturbing the glass.
Why toilet seats work loose, how to tighten the fixings properly, and when the seat needs replacing instead.
Why doors slam and the cheap fixes — from a foam guard to a proper closer — plus the draught cause people miss.
Isolating and disconnecting cleanly, breaking the tile-and-sealant bond without wrecking the wall, and the safe way to get each material out of the room.
Material properties, comparisons and suitability — paints, fillers, sealants, timber, tile, insulation.