How do I tell if my soil is compacted?
The screwdriver test, the spade test and the four surface signs — plus how to find the depth of the problem, which decides what you do about it.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
The screwdriver test, the spade test and the four surface signs — plus how to find the depth of the problem, which decides what you do about it.
The bean bioassay: three pots, three weeks, and a definite answer on a load of manure, straw or compost before it goes anywhere near your vegetable beds.
Taking a sample that means something, reading the result, and the realistic limits of what you can change in an open garden.
A ten-seed kitchen-towel test that takes minutes, tells you the germination rate as a percentage, and saves you a bed of gaps and three weeks of waiting.
What is inside a wax-cylinder opener, why the adjustment is not a temperature dial, where to mount it, and the three things that stop one working.
The scorching myth, the real reason midday watering is wasteful, and why the depth you water to matters far more than the hour.
Why there is no last cut date, how to judge whether a winter lawn needs topping, and the two conditions that make mowing genuinely harmful.
Why liability turns on what you knew and what you did, not simply on whose tree it was, and the record-keeping that decides which of those you can prove.
What each material physically is, what job it does, and the one that fills a raised bed versus the one that feeds a border.
The six-week rule and what is actually happening in that time, why knotting and plaiting do the same damage as cutting, and how to live with the untidy phase.
The test that takes ten seconds, why one pot size at a time matters, and what happens to a small plant moved into a very large pot.
Tomato feed is a high-potash liquid and it works on far more than tomatoes — which plants want it, at what point in their year, and the two situations where it does harm.
Beetroot problems nearly all trace to one of three things: multiple seedlings from one seed cluster, a check to growth, or a cold spell after sowing.
How soil chemistry controls hydrangea colour, which varieties can change and which cannot, and the realistic way to keep a blue hydrangea blue.
Stringiness is a maturity problem with a variety component — the picking size that avoids it, the stringless varieties, and what to do with the ones you missed.
Basal rot explained through the arrangement that causes it — planting depth, mulch against the stem, water pooling and a strimmer wound.
Separating box blight, box tree caterpillar, winter bronzing and drought, since three of the four look similar and need entirely different responses.
Mealy cabbage aphid gets into the growing point and inside sprout buttons where nothing can reach it — catching it early, cutting it out, and clearing the overwintering source.
Pears are not apples: they flower two to three weeks earlier, so frost catches them more often, and the popular varieties have pollination quirks that leave a lone tree barren.
Distortion is caused at the growing point, days before you see it — separating aphids, capsid bug, mite, weedkiller, virus and cold from one another.
Working through the five causes — age, origin, pruning, nitrogen and frost — in the order that identifies most cases quickly.
Why removing spent flowers extends flowering, where to make the cut on different plants, and the ones you should deliberately leave alone.
Excluding light from a dormant crown produces tender pink stalks weeks early — the timing, the covering, and the recovery rule that stops you killing the plant.
Using height, choosing fewer larger containers, and the watering regime a small space demands.