How do I grow chillies and peppers?
Starting early enough, providing enough warmth, and the feeding that determines whether you get fruit or just foliage.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
Starting early enough, providing enough warmth, and the feeding that determines whether you get fruit or just foliage.
The look, feel and smell of finished compost, the cress test that settles it, and what immature compost does to plants if you use it too early.
Which varieties keep and which never will, the cool damp dark conditions apples actually want, and the sorting and checking routine that stops one rotten apple taking the tray.
Making free plants from softwood and semi-ripe cuttings, and the humidity that decides whether they root.
Four things you can read from a single spadeful — structure, colour, roots and life — and what each of them is actually telling you to change.
Removing a large part of a young crop feels wrong and is the single most effective thing you can do for fruit size, next year's crop and the branches themselves.
How much protection fleece actually gives, the two things people get wrong — laying it on the leaves and leaving it open at the bottom — and how to keep it usable for several seasons.
How to turn grams per square metre into something you can actually measure without scales, how to work out what a bed needs, and why half strength twice as often beats guessing.
Why new plants need watering long after they look established, how much a single soak actually delivers, and the first-year regime that decides whether they survive.
Cost per square metre, light quality, heat retention, lifespan, wind resistance and how each one looks in a garden — the honest comparison before you spend the money.
In a planted border, no — it fails within three years and leaves a mess that outlasts the planting. The three places it genuinely belongs, and what to do instead.
Why cutting the offending root is often the worst option, the three fixes that work, and how to rebuild a surface so the tree and the paving can coexist.
Working out how much light you really have, and choosing plants that genuinely prefer it rather than tolerate it.
How to read a garden pesticide label for edible crops, what homemade soap sprays actually do, and why the non-chemical answer is usually also the more effective one.
Why multipurpose compost kills drought-adapted plants in containers, the grit proportion that fixes it, and the different mix each of the common Mediterranean plants actually wants.
Confirming it, deciding between removal and waiting, what you can safely grow in the meantime, and the honest timescale for the bed coming back.
How to take on an overgrown garden without destroying what is worth keeping — survey and hazard check first, cut to see, then wait a full year before making permanent decisions.
What each mulch material is actually good at, where each one is the wrong choice, and the depth that decides whether any of them works.
Electric fan, electric tube, paraffin and gas compared on control, running cost, humidity and safety — plus the honest question of whether you need to heat the whole greenhouse at all.
What frost actually does to plant tissue, why the youngest growth goes first, and the strong case for leaving the damage exactly where it is.
Rot at the base and shrivel at the tip are opposite failures with opposite fixes — telling them apart, and the preparation faults behind each.
Four specific things go wrong when small seed meets a coarse mix — poor contact, surface drying, nitrogen drawdown and over-rich multipurpose — and each has a direct fix.
Baskets peak in June and collapse in July for four specific reasons — exhausted feed, seed setting, root congestion and one dry day. What to do in each case and how to prevent it next year.
How to measure the thatch layer, when it needs removing, and the difference between scarifying, solid tining and hollow tining.