Why has my conifer hedge gone brown in patches?
Six causes of brown patches in a leylandii or cypress hedge, how to tell them apart, and the uncomfortable fact that most of them cannot be reversed.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
Six causes of brown patches in a leylandii or cypress hedge, how to tell them apart, and the uncomfortable fact that most of them cannot be reversed.
A plant that is alive but static is nearly always short of root room, root health, light or warmth — checked in that order, cheapest first.
Peas are a cool-season crop with a short natural window — how mildew, heat and picking rate end a row early, and how to have peas for months instead of weeks.
Buttoning is a check to growth in a plant that then flowers anyway — the transplant, water and nitrogen faults that cause it, plus ricey and blind curds.
The three routes weedkiller reaches a plant it was never aimed at, how to recognise each pattern, and the honest timescale for recovery.
How apple pollination groups work, when a single tree is enough, and the family trees and crab apples that solve it in one plant.
The spade check that tells you whether your watering reached the roots or evaporated off the top, why a daily sprinkle is worse than nothing, and how to get water down where it is needed.
What the grades actually mean, the questions that separate a good supplier from a bad one, and the twenty minutes of inspection on delivery that saves you a decade of trouble.
A greenhouse that stays warm all night gives plants no recovery period and costs fruit set. Why it holds heat, and the vent arrangement that empties it after dark.
Splitting overgrown clumps to rejuvenate them and get free plants, and when each type should be divided.
Telling the two apart, why the conditions that suit each are opposite, and the biological controls that actually work under glass.
Ventilation, shading and hygiene — the three things that determine whether a greenhouse works or cooks.
One of the easiest and most productive crops, plus the mildew and pollination problems that occasionally interrupt it.
Starting tubers into growth, the staking and pinching that produce a good plant, and the lifting and storing routine that gets them through a UK winter.
Autumn against spring sowing, the deep root run they need, the pinching that produces a bushy plant, and the one habit that decides whether they flower for six weeks or four months.
Why sandy soil loses both water and nutrients, the materials that actually hold onto them, and the planting and feeding regime that suits it.
The sub-base, edging and depth that make a gravel path or drive stable, and why most gravel problems are depth and edging rather than the stone itself.
Preparation, laying and the watering regime in the first month, which determines whether the turf establishes.
Pegging the first plantlet on each runner into a sunken pot, when to sever it, and the rolling three-year replacement that keeps a strawberry bed cropping instead of declining.
Citrus want a cool bright winter, not a warm dark one — which is why the living room kills them, and why leaf drop in January is nearly always a light, temperature or watering problem.
Window boxes are the hardest container there is — shallow, exposed and often in a rain shadow. The compost mix, planting density and feeding regime that keep one going all season.
A twenty-year crop planted once — the site and drainage that decide everything, the crowns-versus-seed question, and the cutting discipline in the first three years.
Three different depths of compaction and the different tool each one needs — plus the biological route that fixes it permanently while the mechanical one only buys time.
Designing a simple gravity or mains-fed drip system that reaches roots rather than leaves, and the timer and filter details that decide whether it keeps working.