How do I shelter an exposed, windy garden?
Why a permeable barrier shelters far more ground than a solid one, how far the shelter reaches, and what to plant or build on an exposed site.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
Why a permeable barrier shelters far more ground than a solid one, how far the shelter reaches, and what to plant or build on an exposed site.
Why netting is the only reliable answer, the mesh size that actually excludes the butterflies, and what to do when they get in anyway.
What a cold frame is genuinely for through the year, how to ventilate it so it does not cook, and the week-long routine that hardens plants off properly.
Ventilation, shading, watering and winter cleaning — the four things that determine whether a greenhouse works.
The PPE that is not optional, the ladder rule that causes most of the serious injuries, and a cutting sequence that gives a straight hedge without over-reaching.
Why petrol degrades, what the ethanol in E10 does to small engines, and the storage and stabiliser practices that avoid a workshop bill every spring.
Four observations that separate the two, and why getting it wrong means either pruning off a whole year of flowers or letting a plant swallow a wall.
The site histories that raise a real question, what a home test can and cannot tell you, and the practical measures that let you grow food safely on ground you are unsure about.
Two problems with similar names that need opposite conditions and opposite responses — which surface each grows on, and why one is far harder to stop.
When removing a damaged leaf helps the plant, when it costs the plant more than the damage did, and how to trim one without making it worse.
The border gives a bigger root run and a better crop but accumulates disease. Pots, bags and ring culture avoid that at the cost of daily watering. How to choose, and how to have both.
Which crops resent being moved, where modules buy you weeks, and the UK-specific reasons direct sowing so often fails in spring.
Nursery pots are sold by volume, garden centre pots by width, and neither number tells you what you expect. What each size really holds and why one step up buys so little.
Wetting the floor of a greenhouse cools it, raises humidity and suppresses red spider mite. When it helps, when it causes disease, and the plants that hate it.
The hard late-winter cut that keeps a buddleia at a usable size with big flowers, why it is the textbook example of a new-wood shrub, and the two buddleias that must not be treated this way.
The case for leaving stems standing over winter, the plants that genuinely need cutting in autumn, and how to get both a tidy garden and the wildlife benefit.
What shade actually costs you in fruit, which crops accept it, and the north-wall fruits — Morello cherries, cooking apples, gooseberries — that are genuinely productive without full sun.
Finding out which boundary is yours, what you can and cannot do to a neighbour's fence or hedge, and how to raise it well.
Wind and sun scorch is almost always the answer on Japanese maples, and the position matters far more than anything you feed or spray.
Why small fruit yellows and shrivels at the end — poor pollination in most cases — and how to hand pollinate in a wet or cold summer.
Three separate parsnip problems that get confused — a short season, an obstructed tap root, and parsnip canker at the crown — and what each one actually needs.
The rot that spreads by touch through a cluster and overwinters in the mummified fruit left hanging — and why removing those mummies is the whole of the control.
Recognising damping off, why it cannot be cured once it starts, and the hygiene and watering that prevent it entirely.
Grey mould thrives on contact, damp and still air — so the fixes are all physical: get the fruit off the soil, get air through the plants, and never water over the top.