Why is my wisteria not flowering?
Working through the five causes — age, origin, pruning, nitrogen and frost — in the order that identifies most cases quickly.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 20 min
- Read
- 3 min
Short answer
Ask two questions first: how old is it, and was it grafted or grown from seed. A seedling wisteria can take fifteen years and may never flower well. After that, the usual cause is no summer pruning, or too much nitrogen from a nearby lawn feed.
Wisteria is a plant where the reason for failure is usually decided before you bought it. A grafted named variety on a suitable wall, pruned twice a year, flowers reliably. A cheap unnamed seedling may not.
Step by step
- Find the graft union.Look at the base of the main stem for a knuckle or change in bark texture within about 300mm of the ground. That is a graft, and grafted plants flower within a few years. No graft usually means a seedling.
- Count the years.Grafted plants generally flower within three to five years of planting. Seedlings can take ten to twenty, and some never flower acceptably.
- Check whether it is pruned twice.Summer shortening of side shoots to five or six leaves, then winter shortening to two or three buds. One cut a year, or none, gives leaf rather than flower.
- Look at what else gets fed nearby.Wisteria on a wall beside a lawn receives whatever the lawn does. Nitrogen produces growth and suppresses flowering.
- Apply sulphate of potash in spring.A potash feed supports flower initiation. Applied in early spring around the root area, watered in.
- Consider frost damage to the buds.Fat flower buds killed by a hard April frost give a year with leaves and no flowers, particularly on an east-facing wall where morning sun thaws them too fast.
- Check the light.Wisteria needs a lot of sun to flower. A north-facing wall or a position that has become shaded by a growing tree will not produce a good display.
- Check water in the previous summer.Flower buds for next year form in mid to late summer. A wisteria that was drought-stressed in July often flowers poorly the following May.
- Consider root pruning as a last resort.On a mature, well-sited, well-pruned plant that still will not flower, severing some roots with a spade in a circle about a metre out in autumn can check vegetative growth and trigger flowering.
Tips
- Look for a graft union at the base — it tells you most of what you need to know.
- Buy wisteria in flower, so you know it is a flowering-age grafted plant.
- A wisteria beside a fed lawn is being fed nitrogen whether you intended it or not.
Common mistakes
- Feeding a non-flowering wisteria with a general fertiliser — It usually makes it worse. High nitrogen drives leaf and shoot growth at the expense of flower initiation. Potash is the useful nutrient here.
- Buying an unnamed cheap wisteria — Unnamed plants are often seed-raised, and seedlings are notoriously slow and unreliable to flower. A named grafted variety costs more once and flowers within a few years.
If it doesn't work
Young plant, vigorous, no flowers
Cause: Too young, or seed-raised — Fix: Check for a graft. If seed-raised, be patient or replace with a grafted named variety.
Old plant, huge, flowers only at the top
Cause: Never pruned into spurs — Fix: Begin the summer and winter pruning cycle and cut the top growth back to a framework.
Buds formed then browned
Cause: Late frost, worsened by early morning sun — Fix: No remedy after the event. On an east wall it is a recurring risk.
Flowered well, then stopped
Cause: Nitrogen feeding nearby, or increasing shade — Fix: Stop nitrogen, apply potash, and cut back whatever is shading it.
Questions people ask
How long before a wisteria flowers?
A grafted named variety, three to five years from planting. A seed-raised plant, ten to twenty, and sometimes never satisfactorily.
Does root pruning really work?
Sometimes, on a mature, correctly pruned plant growing too vigorously. Cutting a spade's depth in a circle about a metre from the trunk in autumn checks growth and can trigger flowering. It is a last resort, not a first.
What should I feed it?
Sulphate of potash in early spring. Avoid nitrogen-rich general and lawn fertilisers, which produce growth instead of flowers.