Why is my garlic small with tiny cloves?
Garlic bulb size is set by cold in winter, leaf count in spring and competition — the four things that produce a small bulb and which of them you can still change.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
Garlic bulb size is set by cold in winter, leaf count in spring and competition — the four things that produce a small bulb and which of them you can still change.
Aminopyralid and clopyralid residues pass through animals and survive composting — how they reach a garden, what the damage looks like, and why nothing about the manure warns you.
Which distances actually matter and why — soil type does more of the work than species, and the drains and the shade are more likely to cause you trouble than subsidence.
How selective lawn weedkillers work, when to apply them so they actually take, and the cultural changes that mean you need them far less.
Starting seeds under cover successfully, including the light and temperature that determine whether they thrive or go leggy.
Which slug controls actually work, which don't, and how to protect the plants that need it without treating the whole garden.
Five tests, in order, that settle whether a sick plant can come back — and the cases where replacing it is the right answer rather than a defeat.
What the three groups actually differ in — ground time, yield and blight exposure — and which one suits a small plot, a container or a store cupboard.
How to work out what to sow whenever you are reading this, using frost dates and soil temperature rather than a fixed calendar.
The short list of spring lawn jobs that are worth doing, in the order the weather allows them, and the popular ones that are better left until autumn.
Ridge orientation, shade, frost pockets, wind and the services run — the five factors that decide a greenhouse position, in the order they actually matter in a British garden.
Three sowing rhythms sorted by how fast the crop goes over — with the trigger that actually makes successional sowing happen rather than being forgotten.
Telling male from female at a glance, why a young plant produces males first, and the conditions that delay or abort female flowers.
How to tell tree-related movement from the many other causes of cracks, why the soil matters more than the tree, and the order to do things in — because felling first can make it worse.
The one-side-a-year method that lets a hedge recover, which species tolerate hard cutting and which are killed by it, and how to rebuild the taper as it regrows.
Notched leaves mean adults, sudden collapse means grubs — and the grubs in the compost are what actually kills the plant.
Curing is what turns a lifted bulb into one that keeps for months — the neck test, the conditions that work in a British September, and the bulbs to eat first.
What the numbers on fertiliser mean, when plants actually need feeding, and why more is worse than less.
What can safely go in the bottom of a deep planter, what must never go in, how much compost depth you have to keep, and the mistake that turns a bulk-filled planter into a bog.
Killing and raking out moss, and fixing the shade, drainage or compaction that let it in.
Why weeds appear in joints that look solid, the physical and chemical options, and the jointing repair that actually stops them coming back.
Sowing annual flowers indoors and direct, and the two stages where most seedlings are lost.
Chitting, planting, earthing up and harvesting potatoes in the ground or in bags, plus the timing that decides your yield.
The order to do things in when the forecast says thirty degrees — what actually brings the temperature down, what makes no difference, and which plants to move out entirely.