How do I fix a patchy lawn?
Diagnosing bare patches, repairing them with seed or turf, and the aftercare that decides whether the repair takes.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
Diagnosing bare patches, repairing them with seed or turf, and the aftercare that decides whether the repair takes.
Peat-free is a technique change, not a downgrade — six habits built on peat that give poor results with wood fibre and bark, and what to do instead.
Controlling greenfly and blackfly without wiping out the predators that would have done it for you.
Cut-and-come-again salad from a windowsill, pot or bed — the quickest and highest-value thing most people can grow.
The string training system used in every commercial glasshouse, adapted to a domestic greenhouse — how to set it up, how to wind, when to strip leaves, and the layering trick for a long season.
The four conditions that all have to be met before tender plants go outside permanently, why waiting a fortnight usually produces a better plant, and what to do if you have already planted and a frost is coming.
Preparing the surface so seed reaches soil, choosing the right mixture, and the watering that decides whether it germinates.
The winter planting job that decides whether a fruit tree thrives — hole shape, planting depth, keeping the graft union clear of the soil, and the low stake that builds a strong trunk.
The order of jobs in early spring, and what to leave alone rather than tidying too early.
The autumn jobs that matter — protecting tender plants, mulching, clearing (and not clearing), and looking after tools and pots.
Why pots freeze when the ground does not, protecting roots rather than leaves, and saving the pot as well as the plant.
The framework-and-spur system that makes a climber flower from the ground up rather than only at the top, why horizontal training does the work, and how to renovate one that has become a bare tangle.
The sleeve test that settles it in seconds, why overwatering suffocates rather than drowns, and the salvage sequence that works when enough root is left.
The one-third rule, the cutting heights that suit a family lawn through the year, and why scalping causes most of the problems people blame on weather.
The high hedges complaint route — what it covers, what it does not, the evidence a council expects, and why every route starts with a written attempt to settle it yourself.
The green and brown lists, the surprising items that are fine, and the small number of things that genuinely must not go in.
Cutting too early pulls seedlings out by the roots; leaving it too long lets the grass go leggy and thin. The height to judge by, and the one adjustment that matters more than timing.
The dormant-season default, the species that must not be pruned in winter and the ones that must not be pruned in spring, and why the timing follows from when the plant sets its buds.
One rule that covers most shrubs — prune after flowering — plus the exceptions worth knowing.
How to read a plant's leaves and roots to predict whether it will survive a dry summer, and the British complication that the same plants must also survive a wet winter.
Chillies ripen on accumulated warmth and time, and a British season runs out of both — how to speed it up, and what to do with a plant still covered in green fruit in October.
Separating harmless physiological leaf roll from heat stress, virus and the herbicide contamination that is far more common than people realise.
Bolting has three different triggers — heat, day length and a check to growth — and which one applies to a crop decides whether you can prevent it or only avoid it.
Why lavender splits open and goes bare at the base, whether an old plant can be renovated, and the twice-yearly cut that prevents it entirely.