How do I start a vegetable garden?
How to start growing food without over-committing — where to put it, how big to make it, and what to grow in the first year.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
How to start growing food without over-committing — where to put it, how big to make it, and what to grow in the first year.
The volume sum, the conversion into bulk bags and 50-litre bags, and the settlement allowance that stops you ordering a third too little.
The decision once blight is in the haulm: when to cut, how long to wait, which tubers keep and which go, and why the affected crop must not be composted.
Which leaves genuinely earn removal, which ones the fruit still needs, and why stripping a plant to help ripening does the opposite.
Telling black spot, rust and powdery mildew apart from the marks they make and where they appear, and the cultural changes that actually reduce all three.
The rootstock decides how big the tree gets, how soon it crops and whether it needs staking for life. What each apple, pear, plum and cherry rootstock gives you, and how far apart to plant.
Reading the direction of the curl and where it starts to separate water stress from pests, heat and weedkiller damage.
Reading the pattern of browning to separate dry air, salt build-up, watering problems and scorch.
The shape and position of the hole names the culprit — edge or middle, through the leaf or grazed to a window, and what was left behind.
These two are the slowest, fussiest seeds most gardeners sow — the moisture and warmth window that has to be held for weeks, and the sowing method that holds it.
A diagnostic order for dead patches — grubs, disease, drought, urine or the mower — based on the shape of the patch and whether the turf lifts.
Too much nitrogen, too little light, and pruning at the wrong moment — the three causes behind most plants that grow well but will not bloom.
Above roughly thirty degrees a tomato stops making the pigment that turns it red, so fruit sits green or blotchy orange for weeks. Cooling the plant, not feeding it, is what restarts it.
Why wood fibre and bark dry pale on the surface while the middle of the pot is still wet, and the watering change that fixes it.
The four groups and why each follows the last, what rotation genuinely prevents, and the honest version for a garden with three small beds.
Which vegetables actually work in containers, what size pot each needs, and why container growing needs more water and feed than ground growing.
The signs a householder can genuinely spot from the ground, what each one means, and the point at which a look becomes a phone call to an arboriculturist.
Why an open door on its own does almost nothing, the roof-vent area a greenhouse should have, and the low-plus-high pairing that makes air actually move through the house.
How to tell when a plant actually needs water, why deep infrequent watering beats daily sprinkling, and the signs of overwatering.
Powdery mildew on cucurbits is close to inevitable by late summer — how to tell it from harmless silver leaf markings, how long it costs you, and what genuinely delays it.
Six causes of a disappointing potato crop, in the order worth checking — and the one that catches nearly everybody, which is water at the wrong moment.
The four things houseplants actually need, and why watering is almost always the thing being done wrong.
Spring and autumn feeds do different jobs, applying evenly without stripes, and why more is worse.
Sizing, siting and filling a raised bed, including the timber choice and the depth that actually matters.