How do I tie a plant to a stake without damaging it?
The figure-of-eight tie that keeps stem and stake apart, why a tight loop girdles a plant within a season, and the check that has to happen twice a year.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
The figure-of-eight tie that keeps stem and stake apart, why a tight loop girdles a plant within a season, and the check that has to happen twice a year.
How to work out the frost-free days you actually have, why it decides which long-season crops are realistic, and how to make it longer at both ends.
Silvered leaves with tiny black specks and flecked, distorted flowers — the two symptoms that identify thrips, and why they are so hard to see.
The short window straight after flowering, why camellias need far less pruning than people give them, and how to reduce a large one without ending up with a green wall of leaves.
Amber gum on stone fruit, dark bleeding on mature trees and frothy slime flux are three different things — how to tell them apart and which need a professional.
Why watering foliage wastes most of what you apply and spreads disease, the handful of cases where wetting leaves genuinely helps, and how to deliver water at the base without washing the soil away.
The three conditions that decide whether a given temperature produces frost — the sky, the wind and the moisture — and why the same forecast number means frost one night and nothing the next.
Cold roots, phosphorus lockout, stress and simple genetics all turn leaves purple — how to tell which, and why most cases fix themselves.
How to build a mulch collar over a crown so it insulates without rotting the plant — depth, width, the hollow at the neck, and the grit underneath that matters more than the mulch on top.
What biochar genuinely does, why raw biochar makes a garden worse for a season, and an honest reading of where the evidence is strong and where it is not.
Where a new plant's pests actually come from, the two-week check that catches them, and the specific things to look for before it joins anything else.
Galls, burrs, crown gall and root nodules — the growths on plants that look alarming, and the short list that actually matters.
The specific problems a wet summer produces — disease, slugs, split fruit, poor pollination, leached nutrients and unworkable soil — and the adjustments that genuinely help.
Why this is the hardest planting situation in a British garden, the plant characteristics that survive both extremes, and the soil work that narrows the swing.
A newly laid lawn is the one thing that genuinely cannot survive a dry spell unwatered — and there are exemptions, alternatives and a delay option, in that order.
Why leaving protection on too long does as much damage as taking it off too early, the signals to watch for, and how to uncover in stages instead of all at once.
The site differences that put two gardens on the same street a fortnight apart — aspect, cold air drainage, soil type, shade and shelter — and which of them you can actually change.
Lopsided plants are answering something — light, wind, a wall, a root obstruction or a pruning cut — and the fix depends which.
Fertiliser salts and hard-water minerals accumulate in containers — how to tell the harmful deposit from the harmless one, and how to flush a pot properly.
Why a water butt tap gives almost no pressure, the four ways to move stored water where you need it, and how to choose between gravity, a siphon, a pump and simply carrying it.
When tool hygiene genuinely stops disease spreading, when it is theatre, and what actually works on a blade in a garden.
Root aphid and root mealybug produce a plant that declines with nothing visible above the compost — how to find them and what actually clears them.
Why a winter without a proper frost causes more problems than it solves — pests carrying through, plants that need chilling, growth brought forward into the frost window, and ground that never dries — and what to do differently.
Why a warmer average does not shorten the frost risk in any given year, what a mild winter genuinely does change, and where sowing earlier is justified and where it is a gamble.