Why is my camellia dropping its buds without flowering?
Bud drop, brown flowers and no buds at all are three different problems — separating them, and the summer watering that fixes the most common one.
Choosing, planting and keeping things alive.
150 guides in Garden
Bud drop, brown flowers and no buds at all are three different problems — separating them, and the summer watering that fixes the most common one.
Why rosemary dies of wet feet rather than cold, the beetle that strips it, and the drainage and pruning that keep a plant going for years.
Which plants root readily in water, why water roots are not the same as compost roots, and the transfer stage that kills most of them.
Getting a root-bound shrub, olive or bay out of a container without breaking either — the knife cut, the tip-and-roll, the two-person slide, and when to break the pot instead.
How each type behaves in a pot and in the ground, what happens to them in rain, and the combination most container growers should actually use.
Which grapes actually ripen outdoors in Britain, the south wall that makes the difference, and the bunch thinning and leaf removal that turn a mass of small sour berries into fruit worth eating.
Why shortening every shoot in winter improves one apple tree and removes the entire crop from another, how to tell the two apart in winter, and how each should be pruned.
The three lavenders sold in the UK, how to tell them apart at a glance, and why the hardiness difference between them is the reason so many lavenders fail to reappear in spring.
Restricting the roots, keeping the pea-sized embryo figs and removing the rest, and the wall warmth that decides whether a fig tree is productive or purely ornamental.
Pinching out the growing tip, telling a spent flower from a bud so you deadhead the right thing, and the feeding and staking that carry a dahlia from July to the first frost.
Building the wire structure, planting single-stem trees at 45 degrees, and the August pruning that turns a whip into a fruiting column — the fastest way to get many varieties into a short run.
The three-layer bulb pot, which bulbs go at which depth and why the shoots are not blocked, and the aftercare that decides whether it is worth keeping for a second year.
What an olive actually needs in a British climate, why winter wet kills more of them than winter cold, and whether you will ever get olives.
What removing the growing tip actually does to a plant, exactly where and when to do it, which plants benefit and the ones that must never be pinched.
Soaking, hole preparation and the one detail that decides everything afterwards — how deep the graft union sits — plus what to do if the ground is frozen when the parcel arrives.
Both fruit on spurs on old wood, so both are pruned to a permanent open goblet with sideshoots cut to two buds in winter and five leaves in summer.
The easiest form of propagation there is — dormant winter cuttings stuck in a slit trench outdoors, left alone for a year, and mostly free.
The twenty-minute spring job that keeps a large container plant going between repottings — how much compost to take out, what to put back, and where the plant's collar has to end up.
Why terracotta pots flake and split over winter, what the two labels actually promise, and the test that predicts whether a pot will survive before you buy it.
Why fertiliser damages a stressed plant, what scorched roots and leaf-tip burn look like, and how to flush a pot that has had too much.
Bud drop is nearly always a water supply that faltered while the buds were forming — plus the specific cases of moving, frost and pests.
What self-clinging climbers actually do to masonry, the difference between exploiting existing damage and causing it, and the situations where the answer genuinely is no, do not plant that there.
Which vertical growing systems genuinely produce a crop and which are a watering trap — the pocket planters, stacking towers, gutter systems and living walls, honestly assessed.
Building an espalier one tier a year from a single maiden tree — where to make the first cut, why the arms are held at 45 degrees before being lowered, and how to even up a lopsided pair.