How do I use a wormery?
Setting up and running a wormery for kitchen waste in a small garden or on a balcony, and diagnosing the four things that usually go wrong.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 30 min
- Read
- 3 min
Short answer
A wormery uses composting worms — tiger or brandling worms, not earthworms — to turn kitchen waste into a rich compost and a liquid feed. Feed it small amounts often, keep it damp not wet, keep it shaded in summer and insulated in winter, and it needs almost no attention.
A wormery suits exactly the situation a compost heap does not: small quantities of kitchen waste, no space for a heap, and a wish to deal with cooked-food-free scraps without a bin that attracts rats.
What you'll need
- Wormery with a tap and tray system
- Composting worms
- Bedding material such as coir or shredded card
- Wormery lime mix (optional)
Step by step
- Set it up with bedding first.A layer of damp coir, leaf mould or shredded cardboard for the worms to live in, about 100mm deep. Add the worms and leave them a few days before feeding.
- Site it out of extremes.Shade in summer, sheltered in winter. Worms slow down below about 10C and die above about 30C, and a black plastic wormery in full sun cooks.
- Feed small amounts often.A handful or two every few days at first. Overfeeding is the commonest cause of failure — uneaten food ferments, goes sour and drives the worms out.
- Chop what you add.Smaller pieces are processed far faster. Whole apples and thick peel sit for weeks.
- Keep the mix balanced.Add torn cardboard, egg boxes or shredded paper along with the kitchen waste. All-green feeding goes wet, acidic and smelly.
- Leave out the wrong foods.No meat, fish, dairy, cooked food or oily leftovers — they attract vermin and go putrid. Go easy on citrus, onion and anything strongly acidic.
- Drain the liquid regularly.Open the tap weekly. The liquid is a concentrated feed, diluted roughly one part to ten before use. Left to accumulate it drowns the worms.
- Add the lime mix if it goes acidic.Wormeries drift acidic. A scattering of the calcified seaweed or lime mix sold for the purpose, every few weeks, keeps conditions right.
- Harvest the compost.In a tray system, worms migrate upwards to fresh food, so the bottom tray can be emptied once they have left it. The result is a dark, rich material used sparingly as a top dressing rather than as a potting compost.
- Overwinter it properly.Move it into a shed or garage, or wrap it in an old duvet or bubble wrap. Feeding drops right down in cold weather and that is normal.
Tips
- Composting worms are a different species from garden earthworms — digging some up does not work.
- The liquid is a concentrate, not a ready feed. Dilute it heavily.
- Smelly wormery almost always means overfed, too wet, or both.
Common mistakes
- Filling it up on day one — A new wormery has a small population that cannot process much. The excess ferments, the pH crashes and the worms try to escape. Build up gradually over the first two months.
- Adding cooked food or meat — It putrefies rather than composting, smells badly, and attracts rats and flies. Wormeries take raw plant material and paper only.
If it doesn't work
Sour or rotting smell
Cause: Overfed and too wet — Fix: Stop feeding for two weeks, add plenty of dry shredded card, and open the tap.
Worms climbing the sides or escaping
Cause: Too acidic, too wet, or too hot — Fix: Add lime mix and dry bedding, drain the liquid, and move it into shade.
Tiny flies everywhere
Cause: Exposed food on the surface — Fix: Bury each feed under the bedding and cover the surface with damp cardboard.
Nothing happening in winter
Cause: Worms dormant in the cold — Fix: Normal. Insulate, feed much less, and expect activity to resume in spring.
Questions people ask
Can I use worms from the garden?
No. Wormeries need composting species — tiger or brandling worms — which live in decaying surface material. Earthworms from the soil will die in a wormery.
What do I do with the liquid?
Dilute it to roughly one part in ten and use it as a general liquid feed. Undiluted it is far too strong.
Is worm compost the same as potting compost?
No. It is very rich and dense, so it is used as a top dressing, mixed at perhaps ten per cent into a potting mix, or dug into planting holes — not used neat in pots.