How do I clear a blocked outside drain?
Clearing a drain or gully that is backing up outside, and knowing when it becomes the water company's problem.
Fixing the things that break — taps, handles, holes, hinges.
553 guides in Home & DIY
Clearing a drain or gully that is backing up outside, and knowing when it becomes the water company's problem.
Start from the exact model number, use an exploded parts diagram to get the part number, and check the part number against alternatives — because the same component is often sold at three very different prices.
Choosing the position and the height, what each door material demands, and the cutting sequence that avoids splitting the panel.
Using a template rather than a tape measure, the scrap block that stops breakout on the face you look at, and the setting-out decisions that make a run look deliberate.
How to diagnose why a door catches — hinges, humidity or a dropped frame — and fix it in the right order, planing only as a last resort.
Three ways to give a stripped hinge screw something to bite into again, and why a longer screw is usually the best of them.
Why plasterboard fixings and toggles both fail on a dabbed wall, and the long-plug method that reaches the blockwork behind.
How to work out whether low pressure affects one tap or the whole house, and the fixes for each — from a blocked aerator to a partly closed stopcock.
Measuring at three heights because walls lean, recording services before they are hidden, and why the survey happens after strip-out rather than before.
Fixing new board through an old ceiling into the joists — the method, the joist-marking that makes it possible, working with a board lifter, and the consequences for coving, roses and downlights.
Lifting a slab without breaking it or its neighbours, finding out why it sank, and rebedding it so it stays level.
The step-by-step for changing a washer in a traditional compression tap, including what to do if the seat is damaged.
Getting the old lock strip out, fitting the new one without cross-threading the faceplate, and the alignment check that stops the new lock failing the same way as the old one.
Why an acrylic bath flexes, the cradle and support batten that should be holding it, and why fixing this comes before any resealing.
Locating a squeak through a carpet, the screw-through-the-pile method that leaves no visible mark, and when the carpet has to come up anyway.
Identifying whether it is condensation, the pan connector, the cistern seal or a cracked pan — and which of those you can fix.
The release lever on a clip-on hinge, the screw on a slide-on one, and the labelling that stops reassembly turning into an afternoon of adjustment.
The wax element, the shuttle and the filters explained — what each one does, which of the four common failures you can clear with a clean, and which need a new cartridge.
How to measure for a replacement door, why the old door is a better guide than the opening, and what to do when nothing in the catalogue matches — which is common in older houses.
Telegraphing is the subfloor showing through a thin covering, and it does not settle out — it deepens. What causes each pattern, and why the fix is always underneath.
Four distinct oven fan noises, what each one means, and which of them is a five-minute fix rather than an engineer.
Reading a crack to work out what is moving, the difference between a joint and a fault, and the repairs that hold versus the ones that reopen.
Telling a slow waste from a tray that no longer falls to the outlet, and why the second one is a bedding problem rather than a blockage.
The three reasons grout turns to powder — mixed wrong, cured wrong, or a wet substrate behind it — and why the third one matters most.
Material properties, comparisons and suitability — paints, fillers, sealants, timber, tile, insulation.