How do I fix hinge screws that just spin?
Three ways to give a stripped hinge screw something to bite into again, and why a longer screw is usually the best of them.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 40 min
- Read
- 3 min
Short answer
Plug the hole with glued hardwood dowel or matchsticks, let it set, and re-drill a pilot. On the frame leaf, a 60–75mm screw that reaches the stud behind is quicker and stronger than any repair to the original hole.
A hinge screw spins because the timber around it has been crushed by years of the door's weight working the fixing back and forth. The wood is gone; a bigger screw in the same crushed hole lasts a fortnight.
What you'll need
- Wood glue
- Hardwood dowel, matchsticks or cocktail sticks
- A 60–75mm screw matching the hinge countersink
- A drill and a small bit
- A sharp chisel
Step by step
- Work out which hole is failing.Usually the top screw of the top hinge, because that is where the leverage is greatest. Test each one — a screw that turns forever without tightening is the culprit.
- Try the long screw first on the frame leaf.Behind an internal door frame there is a stud, usually with a packing gap of 10–25mm. A 60–75mm screw passes through the frame and the packing and bites into solid timber.
- Match the head to the hinge.The countersink in a hinge is shallow. A screw with a taller head sits proud and stops the door closing, so use a proper countersunk woodscrew of the same gauge.
- Pilot drill for a long screw.Frames split easily. Drill a clearance hole through the frame and a smaller pilot into the stud, especially near the end of a frame leg.
- Plug the hole where a long screw will not work.On the door leaf itself there is nothing behind. Push glue into the hole, tap in hardwood dowel or a bundle of matchsticks, and pare flush once the glue is dry.
- Let the glue cure properly.PVA needs a few hours before it will take a screw. Drilling into soft glue produces exactly the hole you just repaired.
- Re-drill a fresh pilot.Through the plug, slightly undersized. A screw driven into hardwood dowel without a pilot splits the plug straight back out.
- Only replace one screw at a time.The other screws hold the alignment while you work. Removing a whole leaf means re-hanging the door.
- Check the door margin afterwards.A hinge that has been loose has usually let the door drop, so the gap needs rechecking once the screws hold again.
Tips
- Golden rule: repair the hole, do not go up a screw gauge. A fatter screw in crushed timber strips faster than the original did.
- Matchsticks work but hardwood dowel works better. Beech dowel from a merchant costs almost nothing and takes a screw properly.
- If two or three screws in one hinge have gone, the hinge is undersized for the door rather than unlucky.
Common mistakes
- Filling the hole with wood filler and re-screwing — Filler has no fibre and almost no screw-holding strength. It crumbles under load within weeks, which is why the repair always fails on the heaviest hinge first.
- Driving a long screw without checking what is behind — On external walls and around service runs there may be a cable, a pipe or nothing at all. Check with a detector, and never assume a stud sits directly behind the frame.
If it doesn't work
Long screw pulls the frame out of line
Cause: It has been over-tightened and drawn the frame towards the stud — Fix: Back it off, insert a packer between frame and stud, then retighten just until snug.
New screw spins immediately
Cause: The plug was not glued or was still wet — Fix: Remove, re-plug with glue and let it cure fully before re-drilling.
Screw head fouls the hinge and the door will not close
Cause: Wrong head shape — Fix: Swap for a countersunk head that sits flush with the hinge leaf.
Repairs keep failing on the same hinge
Cause: Two hinges carrying a door that needs three — Fix: Fit a third hinge midway between the existing two.
Questions people ask
Why do hinge screws strip in the first place?
The top hinge takes almost all of the door's weight as a pulling load. Every swing works the screw a fraction, crushing the fibres around it, until the hole is larger than the thread.
Can I move the hinge slightly and use fresh timber?
As a last resort, yes, but it changes where the door sits in the frame. Plugging the original hole keeps the geometry and is almost always neater.