Why does my door swing open or shut on its own?
A door that will not stay put is nearly always out of plumb rather than possessed — and there are three ways to correct it.
Fixing the things that break — taps, handles, holes, hinges.
553 guides in Home & DIY
A door that will not stay put is nearly always out of plumb rather than possessed — and there are three ways to correct it.
A dripping garden tap is nearly always a perished washer or a scored seat, and both are fixable in half an hour with the tap still on the wall.
What hollow really means, telling a small patch from a wall that needs redoing, and finding the cause first.
A toaster has an element on each side of each slot and they are not always both working — how to tell that from a bread problem or a single-slice setting.
Telling a sheared spindle from a failed espagnolette gearbox, measuring the lock strip correctly, and swapping it without removing the glass.
Grout cracks because something is moving — and the location of the cracks tells you what. Movement joints, flexible products and substrate stiffness.
Filler and timber absorb stain completely differently, so a repair that vanished on bare wood reappears the moment colour goes on. The three ways round it.
Reading the ruts to find out whether the fault is the laying course, the sub-base or the edge restraint — and lifting and re-laying an area properly.
How the sprung latch inside a click-clack works, why hair and soap defeat it, and the cleaning and adjustment that fix nearly all of them.
Reading the joint to work out whether the bolts have slackened, the units have moved, or the core has already swollen — and which of those can be fixed.
Telling normal deflection from a real problem, the usual causes, and which of them you can fix yourself.
Telling a worn key from a dry lock, a distorted case and a door bearing on its keep — and what can be done to a mortice lock without taking it out.
How a cam and bolt actually work, the four reasons one will not pull a joint tight, and the repairs for a cam that spins freely in chewed-out chipboard.
When a door leaf can be swapped into an existing frame, when the frame is the actual problem, and the specific cases — composite, uPVC and fire doors — where the answer is no.
Choosing between caulk, beading and expanding filler, and getting a finish that does not crack open again in a month.
Diagnosing an extractor fan that rattles or barely extracts, and the cleaning and ducting checks that usually fix it.
Identification first, because the black stuff is an asbestos question before it is a removal question. Then the methods that work on confirmed non-asbestos bitumen, and the encapsulate-in-place alternative.
Repairing stone, concrete and uPVC external sills, telling a cosmetic crack from one that is letting water into the wall, and the drip detail that has to be restored whatever the material.
Two locks that look identical in a catalogue and do different jobs — which door each belongs on, what the lever count means, and what an insurer is actually asking for.
Most blender failures are a safety interlock, a thermal cut-out or a stripped drive coupling — and two of the three are things you can put right in minutes.
How the slave leaf is actually held, where the adjustment on each type of shootbolt is, and the order that stops you chasing the same few millimetres round the door all afternoon.
Cooling and isolating first, where the drain points are, and refilling without airlocks.
Choosing the right power size, the difference between the closing and latching adjustments, and the regulations on fire doors.
Covering the expansion gap without pinning the floor down, choosing the right threshold for a height difference, and mitring neatly.
Material properties, comparisons and suitability — paints, fillers, sealants, timber, tile, insulation.