How do I fit under-cabinet lighting in a kitchen?
Choosing between strip, puck and bar fittings, getting the light in front of you rather than in your eyes, and where the plug-in boundary sits.
Fixing the things that break — taps, handles, holes, hinges.
553 guides in Home & DIY
Choosing between strip, puck and bar fittings, getting the light in front of you rather than in your eyes, and where the plug-in boundary sits.
Why seams fail, the difference between a seam that has come unstuck and one that was never right, and the repair that holds.
Telling a knock from rust, cutting out only the damaged section, and rebuilding the arris straight.
Servicing a tap that has become stiff, squeaks, or judders — usually limescale, a worn washer or a perished cartridge.
Why threshold strips work loose, choosing the right profile and fixing method for the floors it joins, and the one thing that must never be screwed through.
Steel framing is thin, springy and full of service holes. What holds in it, what does not, and why anything heavy needs a pattress rather than a bigger screw.
Using the diagonals to measure squareness in ten seconds, why the back panel is what locks it in, and how to pull a built carcass back true without taking it apart.
The fingernail test that tells you whether a scratch will sand out, the grit sequence that removes it without leaving a hollow, and when to stop.
What a bonded metal joint can and cannot do, the preparation each metal needs, and the loading direction that decides whether it holds at all.
The four ways a frameless mirror is fixed, how to choose between them by weight and wall, and the mistakes that break glass or drop it.
Where an access hatch belongs, how to cut one into tiled or boarded boxing without wrecking it, and the removable fixings that keep it usable.
Framing a new opening, or forming one in an existing partition, so the door hangs square and the wall around it does not crack — plus the checks that have to happen before you cut.
Choosing between dry mortar, wet mortar and resin jointing compounds, and the preparation that decides whether the joints last two years or twenty.
Getting plugs and anchors out without tearing plaster, and when to leave one in place instead.
Dry-fitting before any adhesive touches it, choosing between superglue and epoxy, and accepting what a repair can and cannot be.
The plug repair for a small hole, where to take the donor piece from, and matching the pile direction so the patch disappears.
The double-cut patch that makes a repair almost invisible, the syringe method for bubbles, and when a repair is not worth attempting.
A dry-lined wall that drums, flexes or has cracked along a board joint has lost some of its adhesive dabs. How to find the extent, refix it mechanically, and when the boards have to come off.
Taking the window apart in the right order, matching the weight to the sash, and tying the knot that will not pull through.
Swapping one hinge at a time so the door stays hung and aligned, and how to match a replacement to an existing recess.
Getting the old deck out, dealing with the bearers and the base underneath, and building the new floor so it does not rot again.
Measuring the gap along the whole run before choosing anything, why silicone fails in a gap that varies, and the three options that work where it does.
Getting a patch flush with the wall around it, working with the plaster's setting stages, and knowing when filler is the better answer.
Why a rattle is a latch problem rather than a draught problem, and the adjustments in order of cost.
Material properties, comparisons and suitability — paints, fillers, sealants, timber, tile, insulation.