How do I get out a screw that has snapped off?
Six methods in escalating order for a screw whose head has gone, from gripping the stub with pliers to drilling it out and plugging the hole.
Fixing the things that break — taps, handles, holes, hinges.
553 guides in Home & DIY
Six methods in escalating order for a screw whose head has gone, from gripping the stub with pliers to drilling it out and plugging the hole.
Establishing the extent, protecting the room properly, and taking failed plaster off back to a straight sound edge without wrecking the brickwork, the services or the rest of the house.
The base is the whole job — depth, compaction and fall — and the falls that stop water running towards the house.
Why posts fail rather than panels, the depth and concrete detail that keep them standing, and the panel choices that reduce wind load in the first place.
Repairing the damaged band around a new frame — how to get a straight, square reveal, whether to plaster or board it, and the detail at the frame edge that stops the crack coming back.
The card-behind-the-hinge fix for a door that binds on the hinge side or sits crooked in the frame, and how to know which hinge to pack.
Four repairs in order of strength, from a quick glue-and-toothpick fix to a properly plugged hole that is stronger than the original.
Choosing between slotted and unslotted, getting the sealing washer stack the right way round, and freeing a backnut that has not moved in years.
Getting one board out without damaging its neighbours, checking the joist beneath, and matching a weathered board so the repair does not shout.
Four answers in order of effort — from rising butt hinges that need no cutting, to trimming the leaf — and how much clearance a carpet actually needs.
Proving the wall is not structural, dealing with the services inside it properly rather than cutting them, and making good the floor, ceiling and walls where it used to be.
How to restore a shower head that has gone weak or sprays sideways, by descaling the nozzles and clearing the inlet filter.
Which wire goes where, the correct fuse rating for the appliance, and when to replace the lead instead.
What PVC electrical tape is actually for, why a taped cable is never a repair, and the small number of situations where using it is legitimate.
Why the wall above a bed is the one place a fixing must not be marginal, what may reasonably go there, and the alternatives that get the same effect with no risk.
Nails are traditional, quick and work loose. Screws stay tight, allow the floor to be lifted again and are the right answer almost everywhere a squeak matters. The exceptions, and the specification for each.
The handful of dimensions that almost every UK kitchen is built from, which ones are genuinely standard and which vary by manufacturer, and how to check before you order anything.
Reading the crack pattern to tell a moving floor from a void under the tile from a missing movement joint — and why replacing the tile alone never works.
Telling a tired latch spring from a failed handle spring cassette, on both timber and uPVC doors, and which part actually needs buying.
Debris and scale on the ball seat, the exercise that sometimes clears it, and why replacing a small valve is usually the right answer.
Which appliances legitimately smell on first use and why, how long it should last, and the specific signs that separate normal curing from a fault you should stop for.
When the oven trips tells you which part has failed — and why an oven that trips only on the grill, or only when hot, is a specific and well-known fault rather than a mystery.
Why a fill valve whistles, why the noise usually appears with age rather than suddenly, and the two fixes that work.
A dryer that stops part way through is usually protecting itself or telling you a container is full — and both of those are more informative than they look.
Material properties, comparisons and suitability — paints, fillers, sealants, timber, tile, insulation.