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Should I nail or screw floorboards down?

Nails are traditional, quick and work loose. Screws stay tight, allow the floor to be lifted again and are the right answer almost everywhere a squeak matters. The exceptions, and the specification for each.

Difficulty
beginner
Time
20 min
Read
3 min
Safety
warning

Short answer

Screw, in nearly every case. A screw pulls the board down and holds it there, does not work loose as the timber moves, and lets the board be lifted again without damage. Use nails only where the fixing will be seen on a historic floor and appearance matters more than silence.

A squeaking floor is almost always a board moving against a fastener. Over years, a nail polishes a slightly oversized hole for itself in the joist, and the board then rises a fraction under one foot and drops under the next. That tiny movement, against the nail shank, is the noise. A screw does not do this because it holds the board clamped rather than merely pinned.

Safety

Whichever fastener you choose, the hazard is the same: services run in the void directly under the boards, frequently notched into the tops of joists exactly where a fixing goes. Scan every fixing point before driving anything. A fastener into a cable can be live at the surface of the board and is genuinely dangerous.
Nailed versus screwed floorboard fixing, and the service zone below

Step by step

  1. Choose screws for anything you want to stay quiet.A countersunk woodscrew long enough to get well into the joist without passing through it. In practice that means the board thickness plus roughly twice again, checked against the joist depth and against whatever is beneath.
  2. Pilot and countersink in old or dense timber.Old, dry softwood splits readily, especially close to a board end. A pilot hole and a countersink take seconds and prevent both splitting and a proud head.
  3. Set the head below the surface.A proud screw head snags a vacuum, wrecks a sanding belt and telegraphs through any covering laid over it. Countersink so the head sits just under, then fill if the floor is exposed.
  4. Use two screws per board per joist.One screw lets the board pivot. Two, set in from each edge, hold it flat. On wide boards this matters more, not less.
  5. Use nails only where they are the right answer.On a historic floor where cut nail heads are part of the appearance, or where you are re-fixing a board that will be lifted routinely and you want a fast fixing. Lost-head or cut floor brads, driven at a slight angle in opposing pairs, hold considerably better than a straight nail.
  6. Never use plasterboard screws.They are hardened and brittle, they snap under the shear loads a floor puts into them, and the broken shank is then impossible to get out. Use proper woodscrews or purpose-made flooring screws.
  7. Match the fastener to a chipboard deck.Chipboard flooring is screwed, not nailed, with a coarse-thread chipboard or flooring screw. Nails pull out of chipboard readily and the board then rides on them and creaks.
  8. Consider secret nailing where the finish matters.Tongued and grooved boards can be fixed through the tongue at an angle, so the fastener is hidden by the next board. It is slower, only works on a new lay rather than a repair, and gives a completely clean surface.

Common mistakes

  • Adding more nails to a squeaking floor — You are adding more of the thing that is causing the noise. Take the nails out or leave them and add screws.
  • Using a screw long enough to reach the ceiling below — In an upstairs floor, an over-long screw comes through the ceiling plaster below, and in a service run it reaches the pipes and cables. Measure the joist depth and choose accordingly.
  • Driving fixings without scanning first — The most common serious injury in floor work. Services are in the void by design, not by accident.

Questions people ask

Will screws show on a floor I am going to sand and finish?

Yes, unless you countersink and fill. Coloured hard wax filler matched to the finished floor is close to invisible; ordinary wood filler stains differently from the timber and will show as a pale dot.

Can I just screw next to the existing nails and leave them?

Yes, and it is what most people do. The nails are no longer carrying much once a screw is clamping the board down, and pulling them all out risks splitting the boards.

What about glue?

Adhesive between board and joist genuinely stops squeaks, and it is used on new chipboard decks. On any floor that will need lifting for services it is a poor idea, because there is no way back.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.