How do I lay a simple path?
The base is the whole job — depth, compaction and fall — and the falls that stop water running towards the house.
- Difficulty
- intermediate
- Time
- 10 hr
- Read
- 2 min
- Safety
- caution
Short answer
Dig out enough depth for 100mm of compacted hardcore plus the bedding and the slab, and lay a fall of about 1 in 60 away from the house. Everything that goes wrong with a path is a base that was too thin or not compacted.
Paths fail by sinking, rocking and puddling, and all three come from the base. The visible part is the quick bit; the digging and compacting is where the durability actually comes from.
Safety
What you'll need
- Slabs or blocks
- MOT type 1 hardcore
- Sharp sand and cement
- Spade and wheelbarrow
- Plate compactor (optional)
- Spirit level and string line
- Rubber mallet
Step by step
- Check for buried services before digging.Particularly near the house — drains, water, gas and electricity supplies all arrive somewhere. A detector and reasoning about where the pipes run.
- Set out with string lines and check the fall.A fall of about 1 in 60 running away from the house. Water must never be directed towards a wall, and the finished surface must sit at least 150mm below the damp proof course.
- Dig out to full depth.Typically 150mm of excavation for a foot path: 100mm compacted hardcore, 30-40mm bedding, plus the slab thickness. Deeper for anything a vehicle will cross.
- Compact the subsoil before adding anything.The layer people skip. Loose subsoil settles and takes the path with it.
- Lay hardcore in layers and compact each one.MOT type 1 in two 50mm layers rather than one 100mm layer, compacted with a plate compactor. Hiring one for a day is what makes the difference between a path that lasts and one that sinks.
- Lay the bedding.A sand and cement mix, or sharp sand for a flexible construction. Screed it level, following the fall.
- Lay slabs with a consistent joint.Tap down with a rubber mallet, checking level and fall constantly. A slab that rocks now will rock forever.
- Point or brush in the joints, and leave it to set.Jointing compound or a dry sand and cement brushed in and watered. Keep off it while it cures — usually a couple of days.
Tips
- Hire a plate compactor. It is inexpensive for a day and it is the single thing that most determines whether the path lasts.
- Buy about 10% more slabs than the area needs, for cuts and breakages. Matching them later is often impossible.
- Check the damp proof course height before you start. A path laid too high bridges it and causes damp inside the house — an expensive mistake to undo.
Common mistakes
- Skimping on the base — The visible surface is fine on day one and sinks within a year. Depth and compaction are the whole job.
- Laying the path level, or falling towards the house — Water pools or runs at the wall. It must fall away, and stay well below the damp proof course.
Questions people ask
How deep should the base for a path be?
Around 100mm of compacted hardcore under a foot path, plus bedding and slab thickness — so roughly 150mm of excavation. More for anything a vehicle crosses.
What fall should a path have?
About 1 in 60, always running away from the house, and the finished surface at least 150mm below the damp proof course.