How do I shade and cool a polytunnel?
A polytunnel heats faster than a glasshouse and shades differently, because you cannot paint the polythene and the ends do most of the ventilating.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
A polytunnel heats faster than a glasshouse and shades differently, because you cannot paint the polythene and the ends do most of the ventilating.
Why greenhouse damp is a winter problem rather than a summer one, and the ventilation, watering and hygiene changes that prevent grey mould.
How mint spreads, the containment that actually works, and how to remove it from a bed it has already colonised.
Why clematis naturally strip themselves bare from the base upwards, the support and training that prevents it, and the recovery routes for a plant that is already a bare stalk with a hat.
Physical barriers that work, the bulbs squirrels leave alone, and why every scent-based deterrent stops working within a fortnight.
Ultraviolet light, not heat, is what fades fabric, chalks plastic and greys timber. What each material actually needs, and the small number of jobs that genuinely extend its life.
Wasps rarely start the damage — they enlarge holes made by birds, codling moth and splitting — so the practical answer is removing the first wound, the fallen fruit and the sugar sources.
The easiest form of propagation there is — dormant winter cuttings stuck in a slit trench outdoors, left alone for a year, and mostly free.
The twenty-minute spring job that keeps a large container plant going between repottings — how much compost to take out, what to put back, and where the plant's collar has to end up.
How to turn rainfall in millimetres into watering-can loads, why the answer depends on soil and root depth rather than on plant type, and how to work out what you can realistically deliver.
Three different things people report from a bag — sour smell, white threads and green growth — and only one of them means the compost is actually a problem.
Where fallen leaves do harm and must come off, where they do good and should stay, and the surfaces where they are purely a safety problem.
Lime is a specific correction for a measured problem, not a routine autumn job — when it is genuinely needed, how much moves the number, and the four situations where it does harm.
How cold air drains downhill on still nights and pools where it cannot escape, the signs that your garden collects it, and the two things you can do about it.
What bokashi does that a compost heap cannot, what comes out of the bucket, and the step people forget that makes them think it has failed.
Cutting perennials back in late May to make them shorter, sturdier and later flowering, the half-and-half variation that extends the season instead, and the plants that must never be chopped.
Why terracotta pots flake and split over winter, what the two labels actually promise, and the test that predicts whether a pot will survive before you buy it.
Identifying apple and pear canker, why it takes hold on wet heavy soil and around wounds, and the cutting-out and hygiene that stop it spreading through a tree.
Why evergreens follow different rules from deciduous shrubs, the spring-to-early-summer window that suits nearly all of them, and the group that will not regrow from bare wood at all.
The three causes of misshapen roots — stones, fresh manure and transplanting — and the soil preparation that produces straight carrots.
Why fertiliser damages a stressed plant, what scorched roots and leaf-tip burn look like, and how to flush a pot that has had too much.
Stippling, silvering and bronzing are the signature of sap-suckers feeding cell by cell — how to tell red spider mite, thrips and leafhopper apart, and what each needs.
Pears are the one tree fruit that must be picked unripe and ripened off the tree — how to know when to pick, how to control the ripening, and the neck test that catches the right day.
The lid that helps seeds germinate is the same lid that cooks and rots seedlings — when to take it off, and what the different collapses mean.