How do I stop condensation and damp in a greenhouse?
Why greenhouse damp is a winter problem rather than a summer one, and the ventilation, watering and hygiene changes that prevent grey mould.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 30 min
- Read
- 3 min
Short answer
Damp air that never moves is what causes grey mould and stem rots on overwintering plants. Open a vent for an hour on every mild day even in December, water in the morning and only at the roots, and take dead leaves out weekly.
In summer a greenhouse ventilates itself through open vents and doors. In winter it is shut, unheated, full of plants that are barely transpiring, and the air inside sits at close to saturation — which is the ideal condition for botrytis.
Step by step
- Ventilate on every mild day.Even in winter, open a roof vent or the door for an hour or two whenever it is above freezing and not blowing a gale. Changing the air once a day prevents most of the problem.
- Use low and high openings together.A low side vent lets cool air in and a roof vent lets warm air out, which drives a continuous flow without a fan. An open door alone is one opening and gives very little through-flow.
- Water in the morning.Water applied in the morning is largely taken up or evaporated by evening. Water at dusk sits on the surfaces all night at the coldest, dampest point of the cycle.
- Water the compost, not the plant.Wet leaves and wet crowns are where botrytis starts. Water into the pot at soil level and keep the foliage dry.
- Water far less in winter.Dormant and semi-dormant plants use very little. Most winter losses in a greenhouse are rot from overwatering rather than cold.
- Space the plants out.Air has to move between them. A bench packed solid with pots holds still, damp air at leaf level regardless of how much you ventilate.
- Remove dead material weekly.Fallen leaves, spent flowers and dead stems are where grey mould establishes and then spreads to living tissue. A five-minute tidy each week does more than any spray.
- Get pots off the floor.Cold, wet floors keep the compost cold and wet. Benching or even a layer of slats keeps air moving under the pots.
- Add gentle air movement if you have power.A small circulating fan on low, running continuously, prevents the stagnant pockets that mould needs. It works better than heating for damp control.
- Clean the glass in autumn.Clean glass lets more light in, which raises daytime temperature and dries the air. It also removes overwintering pests and disease from the frame joints.
Tips
- Water in the morning, at the roots, and much less than you think in winter.
- One vent open is not ventilation — you need air in at the bottom and out at the top.
- A weekly five-minute tidy of dead leaves prevents more mould than any fungicide.
Common mistakes
- Keeping the greenhouse shut all winter to keep it warm — An unheated greenhouse is barely warmer than outside overnight anyway, and the still saturated air rots the plants you were protecting. Ventilate on mild days regardless.
- Damping down the floor in winter — Damping down is a summer cooling technique. In winter it adds moisture to air that is already saturated.
If it doesn't work
Grey fuzzy mould on stems and leaves
Cause: Botrytis in still, damp air — Fix: Remove affected material carefully into a bag, increase ventilation, space plants out and stop overhead watering.
Water running down the inside of the glass
Cause: Saturated air with nowhere to go — Fix: Ventilate daily, water in the morning, and reduce watering volume.
Overwintering plants collapsing at the base
Cause: Crown rot from wet compost and cold — Fix: Water sparingly, raise pots off the floor, and improve drainage in the compost.
Damp worst in one corner
Cause: Dead air pocket — Fix: Rearrange the benching, or add a small circulating fan.
Questions people ask
Should I ventilate a greenhouse in winter?
Yes — briefly, on every mild day. Changing the air prevents grey mould, and an unheated greenhouse loses very little by it because it is not much above outside temperature anyway.
Is condensation on the glass a problem in itself?
It is a symptom rather than a problem. It tells you the air is saturated, which is the condition botrytis needs. The water on the glass is harmless; the air it came from is not.
Will a heater stop the damp?
Only if it also drives ventilation, because warm saturated air is still saturated. A small circulating fan usually does more for damp than a heater does.