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How do I heat a greenhouse cheaply in winter?

Deciding what temperature you actually need, insulating before heating, and the running costs of the realistic options.

Difficulty
beginner
Time
2 hr
Read
4 min
Safety
warning

Short answer

Decide first whether you need frost-free or genuinely warm — the difference in cost is enormous. For frost-free, insulate with bubble wrap, reduce the heated volume with a partition, and use a thermostatically controlled electric heater set as low as it will go.

Almost all the money wasted on greenhouse heating goes on heating air that did not need to be warm, in a structure with no insulation, aiming at a temperature higher than the plants required.

Safety

Electricity and water in an outbuilding is a serious combination. Any mains supply to a greenhouse must be installed by a qualified electrician, on an RCD-protected circuit with weatherproof outdoor-rated fittings — an extension lead run from the house is not acceptable. Paraffin and gas heaters produce carbon monoxide and water vapour and must never be used in a sealed greenhouse; they need permanent ventilation and are not suitable where anyone works for long periods.

What you'll need

  • Horticultural bubble insulation
  • Thermostatic electric greenhouse heater (optional)
  • Max-min thermometer
  • Horticultural fleece (optional)

Step by step

  1. Decide what you actually need.Frost-free, around 3 to 5C, keeps most overwintering tender plants alive and costs a fraction of a warm greenhouse. 10C or more for propagation is a completely different order of expense.
  2. Insulate before you heat.Horticultural bubble insulation clipped to the inside of the frame cuts heat loss substantially. Large-bubble horticultural grade lets more light through than packaging bubble wrap.
  3. Shrink the heated space.Partition off a section with bubble wrap or a plastic curtain and heat only that. Heating a quarter of the volume costs roughly a quarter as much.
  4. Seal the draughts.Check the door fit, any broken panes, gaps at the base and loose glazing clips. Draughts undo insulation faster than anything else.
  5. Use a thermostatic heater.A heater without a thermostat runs constantly and costs several times as much. A thermostat set to the minimum acceptable temperature is the single biggest saving.
  6. Put the heater where the air moves.Low down, blowing along the length rather than into a corner. Warm air needs distributing or you heat the roof and freeze the bench.
  7. Use a heated propagator for the demanding things.If only a few trays need warmth, a small heated propagator uses a tiny fraction of the electricity of heating the whole structure.
  8. Use fleece for the coldest nights.Draping fleece over plants on the bench on a hard frost night adds a couple of degrees at the plant, which is where it matters, for nothing.
  9. Group plants and raise them off the floor.Clustered pots on benching stay warmer than isolated pots on cold concrete.
  10. Measure what you are getting.A max-min thermometer at bench height tells you whether the heater is doing anything useful. Most people find they are heating to well above what they need.
  11. Avoid paraffin heaters unless well ventilated.They are cheap to buy and produce water vapour and combustion gases, which drives the damp and mould problems that kill overwintering plants.

Tips

  • Frost-free costs a fraction of warm. Decide which you need before buying anything.
  • Heating a partitioned quarter of the greenhouse costs roughly a quarter as much.
  • A thermostat is the cheapest thing you can buy and saves the most.

Common mistakes

  • Running an extension lead from the house to a greenhouse heater — It is a serious electrocution risk in a wet environment and most extension leads are not rated for continuous outdoor load. A greenhouse supply must be a proper installed circuit.
  • Heating the whole greenhouse to keep six pots alive — The six pots could go in a partitioned corner, a cold frame or a spare room. Heating a whole structure for a handful of plants is where most of the cost goes.

If it doesn't work

Heater running constantly

Cause: No thermostat, or set far too high — Fix: Fit or set a thermostat to the lowest acceptable temperature — usually 3 to 5C.

Plants damp and mouldy despite heating

Cause: Paraffin or gas heater adding water vapour, or no ventilation — Fix: Switch to electric, and ventilate briefly on mild days.

Cold at bench level, warm at the roof

Cause: Heater blowing upwards or no air movement — Fix: Reposition low, blowing along the greenhouse, and add a small circulating fan.

Bills much higher than expected

Cause: Uninsulated glass and a large heated volume — Fix: Bubble insulate, seal draughts, and partition the space.

Questions people ask

What temperature does a greenhouse need in winter?

For overwintering tender perennials, frost-free at 3 to 5C is enough. For growing on and propagation, 10 to 15C, which costs several times more to maintain.

Is bubble wrap insulation worth it?

Yes, and it is the cheapest useful thing you can do. Horticultural grade transmits more light than packaging bubble wrap, which matters in a dark UK winter.

Are paraffin heaters a good cheap option?

They are cheap to buy and they release water vapour and combustion products into a space you are trying to keep dry and airy. They can work with good ventilation but they cause as many problems as they solve.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Garden.