What can I grow in an unheated greenhouse over winter?
The crops that genuinely produce in a cold greenhouse from November to March, why light rather than temperature sets the limit, and how to stop everything rotting.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
The crops that genuinely produce in a cold greenhouse from November to March, why light rather than temperature sets the limit, and how to stop everything rotting.
pH does not feed a plant — it decides whether the food already in the soil can be reached. Which is why the fix for yellow leaves on chalk is not more fertiliser.
The short list of jobs with a genuine deadline rather than a preference — what the first frost destroys, in the order it destroys it, so nothing is lost to a night you did not see coming.
Four causes account for nearly every case of small fruit — too many of them, too little water, too little light, and an old congested spur system — and all four are fixable.
Flowers that open, wither and fall with no fruit behind them are a pollination or a temperature problem far more often than a feeding one.
Allium rust is disfiguring, common in a wet British summer and rarely fatal — how to confirm it, whether the crop is still edible, and the four things that reduce it.
Which scraps genuinely regrow something worth eating, and which are an interesting science experiment and nothing more.
The old advice says never. The real answer is that they want different humidity and shading, and there are three practical ways to keep both happy in one house.
Some seed refuses to germinate above a certain soil temperature rather than merely germinating slowly. Which crops are affected, and the techniques that get a summer sowing to come up.
Why a layer of gravel or broken pot in the base makes drainage worse rather than better, and what actually controls how a container drains.
Six kitchen-waste garden remedies assessed honestly — what each one genuinely contributes, which claims are wrong, and where they all belong instead.
Three products that do the same job by different routes — what each one actually releases, how fast, and which suits your soil and your patience.
Rod and spur pruning explained — the permanent rod, the spurs cut back to two buds every winter, the summer stopping, and the one deadline that must not be missed.
Five systems that fit a courtyard, a balcony or a strip of paving, what each one can and cannot take, and how much waste each actually absorbs.
Why a sill slopes and what that means, the three ways to restrain a box, and the rules that change once the box is above head height or over a shared path.
Why molehills appear in flushes, which deterrents genuinely do nothing, and the realistic options for a lawn.
Choosing varieties that produce repeatedly, and the cutting and conditioning that makes them last in a vase.
Planting a crown, the first-year rule that decides how long the plant lives, and why picking stops in midsummer.
Two different indoor crops that get confused — jar-sprouted seeds and compost-grown microgreens — with the hygiene that matters for one and not the other.
Deciding what temperature you actually need, insulating before heating, and the running costs of the realistic options.
Everything worth doing to a planted border happens on the surface — the annual routine, the timing that avoids damaging emerging growth, and a realistic timescale for the change.
Turning autumn leaves into the best free soil conditioner there is, with almost no effort.
Where to cut on each kind of herb so it branches instead of stalling, why picking regularly produces more than picking carefully, and when in the day the flavour is strongest.
Blackcurrants fruit on last year's wood, so pruning means taking out the oldest third at ground level every winter — the opposite of how gooseberries and redcurrants are treated.