How do I look after a pond in freezing weather?
A frozen pond kills fish by trapping gases under the ice, not by the cold itself. Keeping one small area open, without smashing or boiling anything, is the whole job.
What to do now, and what can wait.
69 guides in Garden
A frozen pond kills fish by trapping gases under the ice, not by the cold itself. Keeping one small area open, without smashing or boiling anything, is the whole job.
Which fields in a forecast actually predict frost, how to correct a regional forecast for your own site, and the decision rule for whether to go out and cover things tonight.
The four distinct jobs a cloche does, when each matters in a British season, and the ventilation rule that stops it becoming a cooker.
The practical measures that get a borderline plant through a wet British winter — mounding, grit, raising pots, keeping rain off the crown and not cutting back — in the order they are worth doing.
What each covering material is actually good at, which ones must never touch foliage, and how to match the material to whether you are protecting leaves, a crown or a root ball.
How to work out the frost-free days you actually have, why it decides which long-season crops are realistic, and how to make it longer at both ends.
The three conditions that decide whether a given temperature produces frost — the sky, the wind and the moisture — and why the same forecast number means frost one night and nothing the next.
How to build a mulch collar over a crown so it insulates without rotting the plant — depth, width, the hollow at the neck, and the grit underneath that matters more than the mulch on top.
The specific problems a wet summer produces — disease, slugs, split fruit, poor pollination, leached nutrients and unworkable soil — and the adjustments that genuinely help.
Why leaving protection on too long does as much damage as taking it off too early, the signals to watch for, and how to uncover in stages instead of all at once.
The site differences that put two gardens on the same street a fortnight apart — aspect, cold air drainage, soil type, shade and shelter — and which of them you can actually change.
Why a winter without a proper frost causes more problems than it solves — pests carrying through, plants that need chilling, growth brought forward into the frost window, and ground that never dries — and what to do differently.
Why a warmer average does not shorten the frost risk in any given year, what a mild winter genuinely does change, and where sowing earlier is justified and where it is a gamble.
What to do for a mature tree fern, banana, olive, tender shrub or large specimen that no amount of fleece will cover — protect the part that matters, warm the ground, and accept the rest.
Which plants genuinely need shading and which do not, what materials give useful shade without killing the light, and how temporary shade differs from a permanent siting decision.
The four situations where plants genuinely dry out in a British winter despite the rain, how to tell which of yours are at risk, and how to water without doing harm.
Why a narrow gap between buildings accelerates wind rather than sheltering from it, what that does to plants, and how to break the flow without creating turbulence that is worse.
The three separate ways polythene laid on a plant does more damage than no cover at all, and the one arrangement in which plastic genuinely helps.
Why snow is a mechanical problem rather than a cold one, which plants need clearing and which are better left, and how to clear without snapping frozen wood.
The three things that happen to the sun in winter — it gets lower, its arc gets shorter and its light gets weaker — and why a border that is sunny in July is in shade all day in January.
The handful of things worth writing down — frost dates, first and last events, what failed and when — and the recording habit that survives past February.