How do I test old seed before sowing a whole bed?
A ten-seed kitchen-towel test that takes minutes, tells you the germination rate as a percentage, and saves you a bed of gaps and three weeks of waiting.
Food you can realistically grow at home.
110 guides in Garden
A ten-seed kitchen-towel test that takes minutes, tells you the germination rate as a percentage, and saves you a bed of gaps and three weeks of waiting.
Beetroot problems nearly all trace to one of three things: multiple seedlings from one seed cluster, a check to growth, or a cold spell after sowing.
Stringiness is a maturity problem with a variety component — the picking size that avoids it, the stringless varieties, and what to do with the ones you missed.
Mealy cabbage aphid gets into the growing point and inside sprout buttons where nothing can reach it — catching it early, cutting it out, and clearing the overwintering source.
Excluding light from a dormant crown produces tender pink stalks weeks early — the timing, the covering, and the recovery rule that stops you killing the plant.
Starting early enough, providing enough warmth, and the feeding that determines whether you get fruit or just foliage.
Peas are a cool-season crop with a short natural window — how mildew, heat and picking rate end a row early, and how to have peas for months instead of weeks.
Buttoning is a check to growth in a plant that then flowers anyway — the transplant, water and nitrogen faults that cause it, plus ricey and blind curds.
How apple pollination groups work, when a single tree is enough, and the family trees and crab apples that solve it in one plant.
One of the easiest and most productive crops, plus the mildew and pollination problems that occasionally interrupt it.
A twenty-year crop planted once — the site and drainage that decide everything, the crowns-versus-seed question, and the cutting discipline in the first three years.
Why netting is the only reliable answer, the mesh size that actually excludes the butterflies, and what to do when they get in anyway.
The border gives a bigger root run and a better crop but accumulates disease. Pots, bags and ring culture avoid that at the cost of daily watering. How to choose, and how to have both.
Which crops resent being moved, where modules buy you weeks, and the UK-specific reasons direct sowing so often fails in spring.
Why small fruit yellows and shrivels at the end — poor pollination in most cases — and how to hand pollinate in a wet or cold summer.
Three separate parsnip problems that get confused — a short season, an obstructed tap root, and parsnip canker at the crown — and what each one actually needs.
Recognising damping off, why it cannot be cured once it starts, and the hygiene and watering that prevent it entirely.
Common scab is a skin blemish, not a rot — how to tell it from powdery scab and from blight, whether the potatoes are still good, and the watering that prevents it.
Which household and builders' containers make genuinely good vegetable pots, the plastics to avoid, and the drainage and depth checks that turn a bucket into a working planter.
Which surfaces of a raised bed benefit from a liner and which must be left open, plus the specific cases where a base liner is right.
Flowers that open, wither and fall with no fruit behind them are a pollination or a temperature problem far more often than a feeding one.
Allium rust is disfiguring, common in a wet British summer and rarely fatal — how to confirm it, whether the crop is still edible, and the four things that reduce it.
Which scraps genuinely regrow something worth eating, and which are an interesting science experiment and nothing more.
The old advice says never. The real answer is that they want different humidity and shading, and there are three practical ways to keep both happy in one house.