Why do my vegetables run to seed, and can I stop it?
Bolting has three different triggers — heat, day length and a check to growth — and which one applies to a crop decides whether you can prevent it or only avoid it.
Food you can realistically grow at home.
110 guides in Garden
Bolting has three different triggers — heat, day length and a check to growth — and which one applies to a crop decides whether you can prevent it or only avoid it.
Garlic bulb size is set by cold in winter, leaf count in spring and competition — the four things that produce a small bulb and which of them you can still change.
Starting seeds under cover successfully, including the light and temperature that determine whether they thrive or go leggy.
What the three groups actually differ in — ground time, yield and blight exposure — and which one suits a small plot, a container or a store cupboard.
Three sowing rhythms sorted by how fast the crop goes over — with the trigger that actually makes successional sowing happen rather than being forgotten.
Telling male from female at a glance, why a young plant produces males first, and the conditions that delay or abort female flowers.
Curing is what turns a lifted bulb into one that keeps for months — the neck test, the conditions that work in a British September, and the bulbs to eat first.
Chitting, planting, earthing up and harvesting potatoes in the ground or in bags, plus the timing that decides your yield.
The crops that genuinely benefit from an autumn start in the UK, the timing that decides whether they survive, and the ones that will simply rot.
A cabbage builds a frame of outer leaves and then folds the centre — the four things that limit the frame, and why loose planting is the one nobody expects.
Bitterness, curled fruit and stunted ends all come from stress or pollination — and the male-flower question that only applies to some varieties.
Why seedlings stretch, whether a leggy seedling can be saved, and the light, temperature and airflow changes that prevent it.
Blossom end rot is a watering problem, not a disease and not usually a calcium shortage — what actually causes it and how to stop it mid-season.
Thin stalks come from an exhausted or congested crown, shade, competition or over-picking — and dividing an old crown is the fix that transforms most of them.
Pigeon damage looks like caterpillar damage but happens in winter — the netting specification that actually holds them off, and why every scare device stops working.
Curing the skins, sorting out what will not keep, and the temperature, light and container conditions that get a home-grown crop through to spring.
The three ripeness tests, why you never carry a squash by its stem, and the two-stage curing that turns an autumn crop into a store that lasts to spring.
Telling hunger from cold wet compost from too little light, using which leaves went yellow first and whether the stem stretched.
The temperature, plant load and timing reasons green tomatoes stay green, and what to do about a late crop.
What chitting does and does not do, which groups genuinely benefit, and how to tell a useful chit from a useless white sprout.
How to confirm it by digging a plant up, why there is no cure, and the four cultural measures that let you keep growing brassicas on infected ground.
Four honest options for an empty bed between autumn and spring, what each one actually achieves, and the crop debris that must not be left standing.
Leek thickness comes from spacing, transplanting time and a long growing season; the white shank comes from depth. How to get both.
A checklist in the order that finds the fault fastest — depth, temperature, moisture, age, and the seeds that need special treatment.