How do I stop heat escaping through doors and the letterbox?
The cheapest heating improvement available, and the one place you must not draught-proof.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 1 hr 30 min
- Read
- 2 min
Short answer
Brush strips at the base, self-adhesive foam or brush seals round the frame, a letterbox brush and a keyhole cover. Under twenty pounds and an afternoon for a noticeable difference — but never block a vent that serves a fuel-burning appliance.
Draughts are cold air arriving faster than the heating can warm it. Sealing the deliberate gaps is cheap and effective; the one crucial exception is any ventilation that a boiler, fire or stove depends on.
What you'll need
- Draught excluder strip
- Brush door strip
- Letterbox brush (optional)
- Keyhole cover (optional)
- Screwdriver
Step by step
- Find the draughts on a windy day.Hold a lit candle or an incense stick near the edges of doors and windows and watch the smoke. It shows exactly where air is coming in.
- Identify vents that must stay clear first.Air bricks, trickle vents and any vent serving a gas appliance, open fire or stove. These are not draughts — blocking them risks carbon monoxide. If unsure, leave it and ask a registered engineer.
- Fit a brush strip to the bottom of external doors.The biggest single gap in most houses. Screw-on brush strips work better and last longer than stick-on ones.
- Seal round the door frame.Self-adhesive foam or E-profile rubber strip in the rebate. Clean the surface first with sugar soap or it will peel off within weeks.
- Fit a letterbox brush and a keyhole cover.A letterbox is a hole straight through the door. Both are inexpensive and take minutes.
- Deal with internal doors to unheated rooms.Doors to a garage, an unheated utility or a cold hallway. A simple fabric excluder helps considerably.
- Seal gaps around the frame itself.Where the frame meets the wall. Decorator's caulk for small gaps, expanding foam for larger ones, then made good.
- Check the loft hatch.Often overlooked and effectively a hole into an unheated space. Draught strip around the edge and insulation on the back of the hatch.
Tips
- Do this before turning the heating up. It is far cheaper and it addresses the cause rather than compensating for it.
- A house needs some ventilation. Sealing every gap in a modern airtight house causes condensation and mould — trickle vents exist for a reason.
- Heavy curtains that reach the floor and a draught excluder at the front door make a room feel noticeably warmer for very little money.
Common mistakes
- Blocking air bricks or appliance vents — Fuel-burning appliances need air. Blocking their ventilation risks carbon monoxide poisoning, which is potentially fatal.
- Sealing a house completely — Moisture from cooking, washing and breathing has nowhere to go, and you trade draughts for condensation and mould.
Questions people ask
Which vents should I not block?
Air bricks and any vent serving a boiler, open fire, stove or gas appliance. If you are not certain what a vent does, leave it and ask a registered engineer.
What is the cheapest way to reduce heat loss?
Draught-proofing. Under twenty pounds of materials and an afternoon produces a difference most people notice immediately.