How do I reduce draughts?
Where household draughts actually come from, and how to seal them cheaply without blocking the ventilation a house needs.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 3 hr
- Read
- 2 min
- Safety
- caution
Short answer
Seal around doors and windows with self-adhesive strip, fit a letterbox and keyhole cover, brush-seal the loft hatch, and fill gaps at skirtings and floorboards. Never block air bricks, trickle vents or extractor vents — those are deliberate ventilation, not draughts.
Draught-proofing is the cheapest meaningful thing you can do to a cold house, and the payback is usually measured in months. The one rule that matters: seal the accidental gaps, never the deliberate ones. A house with no ventilation gets condensation, mould and, where there are fuel-burning appliances, a genuine safety risk.
Safety
What you'll need
- Self-adhesive draught excluder strip
- Letterbox brush cover and keyhole escutcheon
- Silicone sealant or decorator's caulk
- Door brush strip or draught excluder
- Floorboard gap filler (optional)
- Chimney balloon for an unused fireplace (optional)
Step by step
- Find the draughts on a cold, windy day — a lit incense stick or a damp hand shows the airflow.The smoke visibly bends where air is moving. It finds gaps you'd never guess.
- Fit self-adhesive foam or brush strip around opening windows and doors.Clean the surface with alcohol first — the adhesive fails on dusty or greasy frames.
- Fit a brush strip at the bottom of external doors and a cover on the letterbox and keyhole.The gap under a front door is often the single largest hole in a house.
- Caulk the gap between skirting and floor, and between skirting and wall.Decorator's caulk stays flexible. It's a surprisingly large combined area in an older house.
- Fit draught strip around the loft hatch and make sure it closes onto it.Warm air rises, so the loft hatch leaks more heat than its size suggests.
- Block an unused chimney with a chimney balloon or a purpose-made cap — but leave a vent.A completely sealed flue traps moisture and causes damp. Purpose-made products include a small vent for this reason.
- Leave every air brick, trickle vent and extractor alone.These are the house's designed ventilation. Sealing them creates condensation and, near any appliance, a safety hazard.
Tips
- Do the cheap wins first — letterbox, door bottom, loft hatch. They typically account for a large share of the total draught for a very small spend.
- Heavy lined curtains that reach the floor make a measurable difference to how cold a room feels, and cost nothing to close.
- Draught-proofing a sash window is fiddly but very effective; brush-pile strips designed for sashes are the right product.
- Don't seal a room so well that a gas appliance is starved of air. If a room has any fuel-burning appliance, ventilation requirements apply.
Common mistakes
- Blocking air bricks — They provide combustion air and underfloor ventilation. Blocking them risks carbon monoxide and rot.
- Sealing trickle vents — They're the designed background ventilation. Closing them is a leading cause of new condensation problems.
- Fully sealing an unused chimney — Trapped moisture causes damp in the stack. Use a vented product.
Questions people ask
Will draught-proofing cause condensation?
It can, if you seal deliberate ventilation as well as accidental gaps. Seal gaps around doors, windows and floors; leave vents, air bricks and extractors working.
What's the cheapest thing with the biggest effect?
Usually the front door: a brush strip, letterbox cover and keyhole cover together cost very little and close what is often the largest opening in the house.