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How do I reduce draughts?

Where household draughts actually come from, and how to seal them cheaply without blocking the ventilation a house needs.

Difficulty
beginner
Time
3 hr
Read
2 min
Safety
caution

Short answer

Seal around doors and windows with self-adhesive strip, fit a letterbox and keyhole cover, brush-seal the loft hatch, and fill gaps at skirtings and floorboards. Never block air bricks, trickle vents or extractor vents — those are deliberate ventilation, not draughts.

Draught-proofing is the cheapest meaningful thing you can do to a cold house, and the payback is usually measured in months. The one rule that matters: seal the accidental gaps, never the deliberate ones. A house with no ventilation gets condensation, mould and, where there are fuel-burning appliances, a genuine safety risk.

Safety

Never block air bricks, vents serving a room with a gas fire, boiler, solid fuel stove or any other fuel-burning appliance. These provide combustion air, and blocking them risks carbon monoxide build-up. If in doubt about a vent's purpose, leave it alone and ask a registered engineer.

What you'll need

  • Self-adhesive draught excluder strip
  • Letterbox brush cover and keyhole escutcheon
  • Silicone sealant or decorator's caulk
  • Door brush strip or draught excluder
  • Floorboard gap filler (optional)
  • Chimney balloon for an unused fireplace (optional)

Step by step

  1. Find the draughts on a cold, windy day — a lit incense stick or a damp hand shows the airflow.The smoke visibly bends where air is moving. It finds gaps you'd never guess.
  2. Fit self-adhesive foam or brush strip around opening windows and doors.Clean the surface with alcohol first — the adhesive fails on dusty or greasy frames.
  3. Fit a brush strip at the bottom of external doors and a cover on the letterbox and keyhole.The gap under a front door is often the single largest hole in a house.
  4. Caulk the gap between skirting and floor, and between skirting and wall.Decorator's caulk stays flexible. It's a surprisingly large combined area in an older house.
  5. Fit draught strip around the loft hatch and make sure it closes onto it.Warm air rises, so the loft hatch leaks more heat than its size suggests.
  6. Block an unused chimney with a chimney balloon or a purpose-made cap — but leave a vent.A completely sealed flue traps moisture and causes damp. Purpose-made products include a small vent for this reason.
  7. Leave every air brick, trickle vent and extractor alone.These are the house's designed ventilation. Sealing them creates condensation and, near any appliance, a safety hazard.

Tips

  • Do the cheap wins first — letterbox, door bottom, loft hatch. They typically account for a large share of the total draught for a very small spend.
  • Heavy lined curtains that reach the floor make a measurable difference to how cold a room feels, and cost nothing to close.
  • Draught-proofing a sash window is fiddly but very effective; brush-pile strips designed for sashes are the right product.
  • Don't seal a room so well that a gas appliance is starved of air. If a room has any fuel-burning appliance, ventilation requirements apply.

Common mistakes

  • Blocking air bricks — They provide combustion air and underfloor ventilation. Blocking them risks carbon monoxide and rot.
  • Sealing trickle vents — They're the designed background ventilation. Closing them is a leading cause of new condensation problems.
  • Fully sealing an unused chimney — Trapped moisture causes damp in the stack. Use a vented product.

Questions people ask

Will draught-proofing cause condensation?

It can, if you seal deliberate ventilation as well as accidental gaps. Seal gaps around doors, windows and floors; leave vents, air bricks and extractors working.

What's the cheapest thing with the biggest effect?

Usually the front door: a brush strip, letterbox cover and keyhole cover together cost very little and close what is often the largest opening in the house.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.