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How do I stop draughts from floorboards?

Sealing gaps between floorboards and at the skirting without stopping the underfloor ventilation a suspended floor needs.

Difficulty
beginner
Time
3 hr
Read
2 min
Safety
caution

Short answer

Fill the gap between skirting and floor with decorator's caulk, and fill board gaps with a flexible filler, slivers of timber, or a proprietary gap filler. Never block the air bricks that ventilate the space below — a suspended timber floor needs that airflow to avoid rot.

A suspended timber floor sits over a ventilated void, so cold air comes up between the boards and around the edges. Sealing the gaps is worthwhile and straightforward; the one rule is that the ventilation to the void itself must stay open.

Safety

Never block external air bricks. They ventilate the void under a suspended floor, and blocking them causes damp and rot in the joists — a far more expensive problem than a draught. If your floor has no air bricks or they are already blocked, get that assessed before insulating.

What you'll need

  • Decorator's caulk and gun
  • Flexible floor gap filler or timber slivers
  • Rugs and underlay
  • Draught-proofing strips for boards (optional)

Step by step

  1. Check the air bricks outside are clear before doing anything inside.They are what keeps the void dry. Blocked air bricks cause rot in the joists.
  2. Seal the gap between the skirting and the floor with decorator's caulk.This is often the largest single gap and the easiest to fix. Caulk stays flexible as the timber moves.
  3. Fill gaps between boards with a flexible gap filler or thin timber slivers glued in.Rigid filler cracks out as boards move seasonally. Flexible products or timber move with them.
  4. For wide gaps, glue in tapered timber slivers and plane them flush.It is more work but it is permanent and looks correct on an exposed board floor.
  5. Work along the room in sections rather than trying to do it all at once.It is a slow, kneeling job. Sections make it manageable.
  6. Consider underlay and a rug rather than sealing every gap.A good underlay and rug cut both draught and heat loss substantially for far less effort.
  7. For a bigger improvement, insulate between the joists from below if you have access.From a cellar or crawl space this is far easier than lifting floorboards, and it is a significant heat loss.
  8. Leave the air bricks and any underfloor vents alone throughout.This is the one thing not to compromise on.

Tips

  • Sealing floor gaps also reduces dust coming up from the void, which is a noticeable secondary benefit.
  • In a room with an open fire, be careful about sealing too thoroughly — a fire needs combustion air.
  • Rugs with a good underlay make an immediate difference to how cold a room feels underfoot, for very little work.

Common mistakes

  • Blocking air bricks — The void under a suspended floor needs ventilation. Blocking it causes damp and rot in the joists.
  • Using rigid filler between boards — Boards move seasonally and rigid filler cracks out within a year.
  • Sealing a room with an open fire completely — Fuel-burning appliances need combustion air. Over-sealing is a carbon monoxide risk.

Questions people ask

Can I fill gaps between floorboards permanently?

Yes, with tapered timber slivers glued in and planed flush. Flexible fillers are quicker but may need redoing eventually as boards move.

Should I block the air bricks to stop the draught?

No. They ventilate the void under a suspended timber floor, and blocking them causes rot in the joists — a far more expensive problem than the draught you were fixing.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.