How do I mix concrete by hand?
The ratios for common jobs, the slump test, and why adding extra water is the mistake that halves the strength.
- Difficulty
- intermediate
- Time
- 1 hr 30 min
- Read
- 4 min
- Safety
- warning
Short answer
For general use, 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast, or 1:2:3 cement, sand and aggregate. Mix dry until uniform, add water slowly, and stop as soon as it holds together. Extra water is easy and it dramatically weakens the finished concrete.
Hand-mixed concrete is entirely adequate for domestic work. The only variable that really matters is how much water goes in.
Safety
What you'll need
- Cement, and ballast or separate sand and aggregate
- A mixing board, barrow or tub, and a shovel
- Waterproof gloves, boots and eye protection
Step by step
- Choose the mix for the job.1:5 cement to all-in ballast for general work such as fence posts and paths. 1:2:3 cement, sharp sand and 20mm aggregate for slabs and foundations. Postcrete for posts where speed matters.
- Measure by volume with the same bucket.Consistency matters more than precision. Use one bucket for everything so the ratios stay the same between batches.
- Mix the dry materials thoroughly.Turn the pile over at least three times until the colour is completely uniform. Streaks mean uneven strength through the pour.
- Form a crater and add water slowly.A well in the centre, a little water, then fold the dry mix in from the outside. Repeat. This gives you far more control than pouring water over the whole heap.
- Do the slump test.The mix should hold its shape when heaped and slump only slightly. If it flows or puddles it has too much water. If it crumbles, it needs a little more.
- Resist adding water to make it easier.Workability is tempting and water is the single biggest factor in final strength. A wet mix can be less than half the strength of a correct one.
- Mix only what you can place.Concrete starts setting within about two hours. Mix in barrow-loads you can place and finish before it stiffens.
- Place and compact it.Fill in layers and tamp or rod each one to remove air pockets. Voids left in the pour are weak points and show on the surface.
- Level and finish appropriately.A straight edge tamped across the form for a level surface. A wood float for a grippy finish, a steel float for smooth — a smooth outdoor slab is slippery in the wet.
- Cure it properly.Keep it damp and covered for several days. Concrete gains strength by hydration, not by drying — letting it dry out fast in the sun weakens it substantially.
- Protect it from frost.Concrete that freezes before it has set is permanently damaged. Cover with insulation in cold weather or wait for milder conditions.
Tips
- Water is the enemy of strength. Mix it as dry as you can still work with.
- Use the same bucket for every ingredient so the ratio stays consistent.
- Keep it damp for several days. Concrete cures by hydration, not by drying out.
Common mistakes
- Adding extra water to make it easier to work — Water content is the dominant factor in concrete strength. A sloppy mix can end up under half the strength of a correctly proportioned one, and there is no way to correct it afterwards.
- Letting it dry out quickly in the sun — Concrete needs moisture to cure. Drying out fast stops the chemical reaction early, leaving a weak, dusty surface that never reaches full strength.
If it doesn't work
Mix too wet and running
Cause: Too much water — Fix: Add more dry material in the correct ratio. Never just add cement.
Surface dusty and weak after curing
Cause: Dried too fast, or over-watered — Fix: Cannot be rectified properly. Keep future pours damp and covered for several days.
Honeycombing and voids in the face
Cause: Not compacted — Fix: Tamp or rod each layer as you fill. Patch existing voids with a repair mortar.
Cracks appearing within days
Cause: Shrinkage from drying too fast, or no movement joints — Fix: Cure damp, and include movement joints in larger slabs.
Concrete not setting
Cause: Frost, or very old cement — Fix: Cement has a shelf life and absorbs moisture in the bag. Use fresh cement and protect from frost.
Questions people ask
What is the standard concrete mix ratio?
For general domestic work, 1 part cement to 5 parts all-in ballast. For slabs and foundations, 1:2:3 cement, sharp sand and 20mm aggregate is a common specification.
How much water should I add?
As little as you can while still being able to place and compact it. There is no fixed figure because the ballast carries moisture — judge by the slump test instead.
Is Postcrete worth using for fence posts?
For speed, yes — it sets in minutes and needs no mixing. It costs more per post, so for a long run of fencing a mixed concrete is more economical.