My gas hob will not light — what can I safely check myself?
Three bounded owner checks — burner cap seating, blocked ports and a contaminated ignition electrode — and a clear statement of where owner work stops.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 15 min
- Read
- 5 min
- Safety
- restricted
Short answer
You may check three things and no more: that the burner cap sits flat and centred on its crown, that the flame ports around the crown are clear, and that the ignition electrode is dry and clean. Everything past that — the injector, the tap, the flame supervision device, the pipework — is Gas Safe registered work. If you can smell gas at any point, stop and follow the emergency procedure.
A gas burner that will not light is very often something sitting a few millimetres out of place or a port blocked by a boil-over, and those are things a household can put right in five minutes with the gas off. What it is never is an invitation to go further in. The boundary below is set by law, not by caution.
Safety
What you'll need
- Every burner control confirmed off, and the burner completely cold
- A dry cloth
- A pin, a paperclip or a soft brush for clearing ports (optional)
- Warm soapy water and a soft brush for washing caps and crowns (optional)
Step by step
- Confirm the supply is actually on before anything else.Do other gas appliances work — a boiler, a gas oven? Is the meter's emergency control valve open? Are you on a prepayment meter that has run out of credit? A whole-hob failure is far more often supply than burner.
- Turn everything off and let the burner cool.Every knob to off, and cold enough to handle comfortably. A gas burner holds heat in the cast iron support long after the flame is out.
- Check the burner cap is seated flat and centred.Lift it and put it back squarely on the crown. Most caps have a locating spigot or a recess and only sit correctly one way. A cap even slightly off its seat gives a lifting, yellow or one-sided flame, or no light at all — and it is the most common single cause after a clean.
- Look at the flame ports around the crown.The slots cut around the edge of the crown are the flames. A boil-over blocks some of them, and the signature is a gap in the ring of flame that appears in the same place every time. Clear them cold with a pin or a soft brush — never with anything that widens or deforms the slot.
- Wash the cap and crown properly if they are greasy.Both lift off on nearly every domestic hob. Warm soapy water and a soft brush, then dry them completely before refitting. Dry means dry: a wet crown will not light and it will corrode.
- Wipe the ignition electrode dry and clean.The ceramic-tipped pin beside the burner produces the spark. Wet or greasy, it clicks without sparking, or sparks weakly to the wrong place. A dry cloth, cold, with the hob isolated electrically if you can. Do not bend it, do not adjust its gap — that is engineer work.
- Refit everything and test one burner at a time.Cap centred, crown seated, everything dry. If it lights and holds, you are done. If it lights only while you hold the knob in and dies when you release it, that is the flame supervision device and it is not an owner fix.
- Stop here and call a Gas Safe registered engineer for anything else.No spark at all on any burner, a burner that lights and dies when the knob is released, a persistent yellow or orange flame, sooting on pans, a burner that lights with a bang, or any smell. All of these are engineer work and some are urgent.
Tips
- If the spark works on every burner but one will not light, the fault is that burner's cap, crown or port. If no burner sparks, it is the ignition unit or the supply to it, and that is not yours.
- A gas flame should be crisp blue with a small blue inner cone. Yellow or orange tips, or soot on the base of pans, means incomplete combustion — stop using it and get it checked, because incomplete combustion produces carbon monoxide.
- An audible-alarm carbon monoxide detector to BS EN 50291 belongs in any room with a gas appliance. It is inexpensive and it covers the failure mode you cannot smell.
- After a hob clean, always check every cap is back on its own burner. The caps for different burner sizes are often similar but not interchangeable.
Common mistakes
- Clearing ports with a drill bit or a knife — Widening or deforming a port changes the gas and air mixture at that flame permanently. A pin that fits the slot without forcing is the only appropriate tool.
- Refitting a wet crown or cap — It will not light reliably, and water in the burner base is exactly where corrosion starts. Everything comes back bone dry.
- Continuing to use a burner that lights with a bang or burns yellow — Both indicate a combustion problem. Yellow flames mean incomplete combustion and carbon monoxide, which has no smell and no warning.
If it doesn't work
Clicks but no flame on one burner only
Cause: Cap off its seat, blocked ports, or a wet crown — Fix: Cold: reseat the cap, clear the ports with a pin, wash and thoroughly dry the crown. This covers most single-burner failures.
No clicking at all on any burner
Cause: Ignition unit, its supply, or a switch — Fix: Check the hob's plug or isolator has power. Beyond that it is engineer work — the ignition unit sits with the gas components.
Lights while the knob is held, dies when released
Cause: Flame supervision device not being heated, or failed — Fix: Gas Safe registered engineer. The supervision device is a safety component and is not owner-adjustable.
Yellow or orange flame, soot on pans
Cause: Incomplete combustion — Fix: Stop using the burner and book a Gas Safe registered engineer. This is the carbon monoxide failure mode.
Any smell of gas
Cause: A leak — Fix: Gas off at the meter, no switches, ventilate, everyone out, 0800 111 999 from outside. Never a diagnostic exercise.
Questions people ask
Can I light the burner with a match if the ignition is broken?
On a hob with a flame supervision device you can usually light it with a match while holding the knob in, and many manuals describe this for power cuts. If the ignition has failed permanently, get it repaired rather than living with matches — a failed ignition unit is a symptom worth diagnosing.
Why does only one burner refuse to light after I cleaned the hob?
Almost certainly the cap is on the wrong burner or not seated. Burner caps are sized to their crowns and look alike. Take them all off and match them by diameter.
Is it legal for me to change my own gas hob?
Connecting or disconnecting a gas appliance is work that must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer. It is not a competence judgement you get to make for yourself, and it affects your insurance and, in a rented property, the landlord's legal duties.