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Which hob should I buy — induction, ceramic or gas?

The six axes the three hob types genuinely differ on, what each one costs to install as well as to buy, and an honest verdict for a typical UK kitchen.

Difficulty
beginner
Time
40 min
Read
5 min

Short answer

Induction is faster, roughly twice as efficient as gas, and the easiest to clean, at the cost of needing magnetic pans and a substantial electrical supply. Gas is the cheapest to run per unit of energy and works with any pan, but wastes most of its heat into the room and needs Gas Safe installation. Ceramic is the cheap middle and is the weakest of the three on both speed and efficiency.

The three hob types are not three versions of the same thing. They put heat into a pan by three different mechanisms, and almost every difference in speed, efficiency, cleaning and pan compatibility falls straight out of that. Deciding between them is mostly about which of those consequences you care about, plus what your kitchen can actually supply.

Induction, ceramic and gas compared on the things that differ

Step by step

  1. Understand how each gets heat into the pan.Induction generates heat inside the pan base itself with a magnetic field — the glass only warms from the pan. Ceramic heats a radiant element under the glass, which heats the glass, which heats the pan: two transfers away. Gas burns a flame under and around the base.
  2. Compare responsiveness, which is what you notice daily.Induction is near-instant in both directions. Gas is fast up and fast down. Ceramic is slow both ways, because the glass has to heat and then cool before the pan follows, and that lag is the most common complaint about it.
  3. Compare efficiency honestly, then price it.Roughly: induction 85 to 90 per cent of energy reaches the food, ceramic around 70 per cent, gas 40 to 55 per cent with the rest heating the kitchen. Gas units are cheaper per kWh than electricity, which narrows the running-cost gap considerably — do the arithmetic against your own two unit rates rather than assuming either wins.
  4. Check the pans you already own.Induction needs a ferrous base — a magnet must stick firmly, not weakly. Most stainless steel, cast iron and enamelled steel work; aluminium, copper and most glass do not. Replacing a full pan set is a real cost that belongs in the comparison.
  5. Find out what your kitchen can supply.A full-size induction hob typically wants a dedicated cooker circuit and is not a plug-in appliance; many need 32A. Ceramic is similar. Gas needs a Gas Safe registered connection plus a socket for the ignition. Get this checked before you choose, because a new circuit is a notifiable job with its own cost.
  6. Think about cleaning, which is a daily rather than an annual difference.Induction glass stays cool except where the pan was, so spills wipe rather than bake. Ceramic glass gets properly hot and bakes sugar on. Gas has caps, crowns and pan supports that all come off and go in the sink. This is the axis people underrate most.
  7. Consider the special cases.Wok cooking and charring peppers over a flame are things only gas does well. Pacemakers and induction have a stated manufacturer distance that is worth checking. A power cut kills induction entirely and leaves a gas hob lightable with a match, though the flame supervision device still needs the knob held while it heats.
  8. Reach a verdict against your kitchen.For most UK households replacing a hob and able to fund the circuit, induction is the better appliance on speed, efficiency, safety and cleaning. Gas remains the right answer where the supply exists, the pans are wrong for induction, and the cooking is wok-heavy. Ceramic is the answer when the budget is fixed and low.

Tips

  • Take a fridge magnet to your own pan drawer before you shop. Five minutes there settles the induction question more usefully than any specification sheet.
  • Induction bridging zones and flexible zones are genuinely useful if you use a griddle or a fish kettle; boost functions matter less than people expect because the standard settings are already fast.
  • If you cook a lot at low heat, check the low-end control. Some cheaper induction hobs pulse the power at very low settings rather than holding it, which is poor for melting chocolate or holding a simmer.
  • A gas hob with a wok burner and cast iron supports is a different appliance from a basic four-burner. Compare like with like on burner output in kW.

Common mistakes

  • Budgeting for the hob and not the circuit — An induction or ceramic hob that needs a dedicated cooker circuit where there is only a socket adds an electrician, a new circuit and notifiable work to the price. It is often the largest single line item after the appliance.
  • Assuming gas is cheaper to run because gas is cheaper per unit — It is cheaper per kWh but delivers roughly half of it into the pan. The two effects partly cancel, and the answer depends on your own two tariffs rather than on a general rule.
  • Choosing ceramic because it looks like induction — They look nearly identical and behave completely differently. Ceramic is slow to respond, hotter to clean around, and less efficient. If the flat glass look is the appeal, the difference in price buys a genuinely better appliance.

Alternatives

  • Induction hob: Fastest, most efficient, safest surface and easiest to clean. Needs magnetic pans and usually a dedicated cooker circuit.
  • Gas hob: Any pan, visible flame control, excellent for wok work and charring. Lowest efficiency, most cleaning, and Gas Safe registered installation only.
  • Ceramic radiant hob: Cheapest flat-glass option. Slow to respond in both directions and less efficient than induction, with the same installation burden.
  • Venting hob: An induction hob with extraction built into the surface, drawing steam downwards. Removes the need for a hood over an island; costs considerably more and complicates the cabinetry.

Questions people ask

Is induction dangerous with a pacemaker?

Manufacturers state a minimum distance, typically a few tens of centimetres, and advise checking with the device manufacturer. It is a real instruction to follow rather than a theoretical risk, and it is worth resolving before purchase rather than after.

Will my old pans really not work on induction?

Some will. The test is a magnet: if it grips the base firmly, the pan works. Many stainless pans have a ferrous disc in the base specifically so they do. Aluminium, copper and most glass and ceramic will not.

Does an induction hob need a special worktop?

It needs the ventilation gap the manufacturer specifies beneath it, and on some models a clearance to any drawer or oven below. Solid surfaces and stone are fine; the constraint is airflow to the electronics, not the material.

Want the whole subject?

  • DecisionHQ (in development)

    Comparing hob types across purchase price, installation cost and running cost rather than on the sticker alone.

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