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How do I fix into a concrete floor?

Choosing between concrete screws, expansion anchors and resin, how deep to go without breaching the membrane, and finding out what is in the slab first.

Difficulty
intermediate
Time
40 min
Read
4 min
Safety
warning

Short answer

For light and medium fixings, a concrete screw into an accurately drilled SDS hole is quick, strong and removable. For heavy loads use a throughbolt or resin. Keep holes as shallow as the fixing allows, because the damp-proof membrane and any underfloor heating sit within the slab build-up.

A concrete ground floor is not just concrete. It is typically a slab, a membrane, sometimes insulation, and a screed on top, and every one of those layers changes what a fixing does and what damage it can cause.

Safety

Concrete floors commonly contain a damp-proof membrane, underfloor heating pipes and sometimes electrical conduit. Drilling through a DPM lets damp up into the slab; drilling a heating pipe is expensive and immediate. Establish what is in the floor before drilling, and never drill deep into a slab you know nothing about. Concrete dust contains silica — use dust extraction or a mask.

What you'll need

  • SDS drill and bits
  • concrete screws or throughbolts
  • vacuum or blower
  • cable, pipe and heating detector
  • eye protection

Step by step

  1. Find out what the floor build-up is.Age of the house, presence of underfloor heating, and whether the surface is a screed or the structural slab. If there is wet underfloor heating, do not drill without a thermal camera or the original layout drawing.
  2. Scan before drilling.A detector will find heating pipes and conduit near the surface. Warm the heating first and use a thermal camera if you have access to one — pipes show clearly.
  3. Decide the depth you actually need.Match it to the fixing's stated embedment and go no deeper. A shallow accurate hole is safer in every respect than a generous one.
  4. Use an SDS drill.A combi drill in a concrete slab is a losing battle. An SDS-plus with a good bit will drill a clean accurate hole in seconds.
  5. Choose a concrete screw for most jobs.They cut their own thread in a precisely sized hole, need no plug, can be removed and refitted, and are strong enough for battens, frames, floor plates and brackets.
  6. Choose a throughbolt or resin for heavy loads.Machinery, structural posts, gym equipment. Throughbolts need sound concrete and edge distance; resin suits anything less than perfect.
  7. Clean the hole.Vacuum it out. Concrete dust in the hole is the difference between a concrete screw cutting a full thread and one that jams on debris and snaps.
  8. Do not over-torque a concrete screw.They cut a thread in brittle material. Driven too hard they strip the hole and go loose without warning. Firm and stop.
  9. Seal the hole if the membrane may be breached.Where a hole has gone through into a suspect layer, bedding the fixing in resin or sealant limits the moisture path.
  10. Consider a non-drilling alternative.Heavy furniture, gym flooring and even some frames can be held with construction adhesive or ballast rather than a fixing. In a floor with underfloor heating, that is often the right answer.

Tips

  • Concrete screws are the modern default for floors — no plug, removable, and much easier to install correctly than a throughbolt.
  • Where there is underfloor heating, run it hot for an hour then look at the floor with a thermal camera. The pipe layout becomes obvious.
  • In a screed rather than a structural slab, keep fixings shallow. Screed is much weaker than the slab under it.

Common mistakes

  • Drilling deeper than necessary — Depth is the only thing standing between the bit and the damp-proof membrane, insulation or a heating pipe. There is no benefit to a hole deeper than the fixing needs.
  • Using an ordinary plug and screw — A nylon plug in a floor is loaded in a way it handles poorly, and floor fixings usually see shock loads. Concrete screws or anchors are the right family.

If it doesn't work

Concrete screw snapped while driving

Cause: Hole not cleaned, or too shallow, or driven with an impact wrench — Fix: Vacuum the hole, drill slightly deeper than the screw, and drive with controlled torque rather than an impact wrench.

Fixing loose in the hole

Cause: Hole oversize, or the screed crumbled — Fix: Move, or drill through the screed into the slab beneath and use a longer fixing. Resin is the reliable recovery.

Damp patch appearing around a fixing

Cause: Damp-proof membrane breached — Fix: Remove the fixing, fill the hole with a suitable resin or sealant, and relocate the fixing. Persistent damp may need professional assessment.

Bit stops dead a short way in

Cause: Reinforcement mesh or bar — Fix: Move at least 75mm. Do not drill through reinforcement in a structural slab.

Questions people ask

Can I fix a stud wall to a concrete floor?

Yes — a sole plate fixed with concrete screws at regular centres is standard practice. Use a DPC strip under the plate on a ground floor to keep the timber off the concrete.

What if I hit underfloor heating?

Turn the system off and isolate it immediately, and get a heating engineer. A pierced pipe in a screed is a repairable but urgent job.

Do I need to drill at all for a shed base or a frame?

Often not. Weight, ballast or adhesive can hold a great deal, and avoiding holes in a floor with a membrane and heating is worth some inconvenience.

Written and maintained by the GuideHQ editorial team. More in Home & DIY.