How do I set a fence post so it stays put?
Hole depth, concrete versus post spikes, and the drainage detail that determines how long the post lasts.
Practical answers for repairs, cleaning, decorating and the household problems that turn up whether you planned for them or not. Written so you can start with what you already own.
2,154 guides
Hole depth, concrete versus post spikes, and the drainage detail that determines how long the post lasts.
Why a floating floor makes noise, why the noise is almost never the boards themselves, and the three things to check under it.
Concrete sticks because the form face is absorbent or rough. A release agent and a smooth, sound face are what let the formwork come off cleanly.
Working out whether the damp is coming through the roof, up from the base, or condensing out of the air, since the three need entirely different fixes.
Repairing the crater a handle has made in plasterboard, and the four ways of stopping it happening again — one of which is right for a rented flat and one of which is right for a hallway with children.
The width calculation that takes five minutes before you start, and the first-row rip that makes both edges of the room match.
A magnet, your eyes and your hand answer the question for almost everything in a house. The sequence of tests, what each one rules in and out, and the two places the simple tests mislead.
Marking, scoring and cutting a door so the veneer does not chip, plus how much can be taken off each type of door before it is ruined.
Paint, swelling and seized mechanisms — the three causes and the gentle approach to each.
The adhesive that grabs on contact and gives you no second chance — and the slip-sheet technique that lets you place a panel exactly right first time.
Why cement burns creep up on you, the kit that prevents them, and what to do in the first minutes when cement gets on skin or in an eye.
What the numbers on a TRV mean, why one valve is different from the other, and how to fix a stuck one.
O-rings, gaskets and compression olives seal in three different ways. Which one you are looking at decides whether tightening helps, does nothing, or destroys the seal — and it is why so many leaks get worse after someone attacks them with a spanner.
Set, cured and fully strong are three different things at three different times — and what each one lets you do without damaging the slab.
Why a cylinder schedule is set by reheat time rather than by when you want a shower, and how to size the heating windows to your household without paying to keep water hot all day.
Why full support matters more than adhesive strength, how to comb and collapse a notched bed, and the lift-and-look check that tells you whether you have it.
The signs that genuinely indicate a rewire rather than a board change, what a full and a partial rewire involve, realistic UK costs, and how to sequence it so it costs less.
The geometry that lets a bead stretch — roughly twice as wide as it is deep, bonded to two faces and not three — and why almost every split bead breaks this rule.
What actually goes wrong when leads are chained, why the fuse does not save you, and the two legitimate ways to get power further away.
Why a cracked render is worse than no render at all, how to tell sound render from render that has lost its bond, and what to do when a patch repair will not hold.
Where it makes sense against replacing windows, what it does for noise, and the cheap film version.
Why 150mm of clearance below the damp proof course matters, how paving and soil creep up over the years, and how to dig a wall back out without causing a new problem.
Reading the gap at the top, the four places the failure can be, and which of them a householder can put right.
Which grouts benefit from a sealer, which do not need one, and the difference between a penetrating sealer and a surface coating.
Material properties, comparisons and suitability — paints, fillers, sealants, timber, tile, insulation.
MaterialWorld is in development — GuideHQ covers the practical answers in the meantime.