How do I store a potato crop over winter?
Curing the skins, sorting out what will not keep, and the temperature, light and container conditions that get a home-grown crop through to spring.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
Curing the skins, sorting out what will not keep, and the temperature, light and container conditions that get a home-grown crop through to spring.
The three ripeness tests, why you never carry a squash by its stem, and the two-stage curing that turns an autumn crop into a store that lasts to spring.
How to judge mature size honestly, the characteristics that matter in a small space, and a shortlist of trees that stay genuinely small in British conditions.
Telling hunger from cold wet compost from too little light, using which leaves went yellow first and whether the stem stretched.
The temperature, plant load and timing reasons green tomatoes stay green, and what to do about a late crop.
The one distinction that decides everything about raspberries — which canes carry the fruit — with the support system, the pruning for each type and the timing that saves or loses a crop.
Which fruit genuinely works in a container, the rootstocks that make it possible, and the watering, feeding and repotting regime that decides whether it crops or slowly dies.
Where reused compost is fine, where it quietly loses you a season, and how to recondition a heap of it so it is worth using again.
The signs a plant needs repotting, choosing the right pot size, and the aftercare that prevents transplant shock.
Working minimum compost depths for salads, vegetables, shrubs and small trees in containers — and why width matters more than depth for everything except root crops.
Which shrubs tolerate hard renovation and which will die, the three-year staged method, and how to bring a plant back without losing it.
Siting and supporting a butt, fitting a rainwater diverter at the right height, and the overflow arrangement that stops it flooding the wall.
Fungus gnats breed in permanently damp compost — the four measures that break the cycle, and why they are a watering symptom rather than an infestation.
Hot weather strips oxygen out of pond water while simultaneously increasing what everything in it needs. Aeration, shade and restraint — and the one thing never to do to a struggling pond.
The cardboard-and-compost method from measuring out to planting the same day — including the edge detail and the weeds that defeat it.
What mulch does for water, weeds and soil, which material to use where, and the mistakes that make it counterproductive.
Basket size, the liner and reservoir, a compost mix that does not dry out by lunchtime, and the feeding regime that keeps it flowering into September.
Bare-root versus pot-grown, spacing that gives a dense hedge rather than a row of shrubs, and the first-year watering that decides whether it works.
Hole size, planting depth and the watering regime that gets a new plant through its first two years.
Why one clear night in April costs a whole year's fruit, how to tell whether blossom has been killed, and the fleecing, siting and variety choices that actually work.
When and how to prune bush, climbing and shrub roses, and the cut that determines where new growth goes.
The two-cut-a-year system that turns rampant growth into flowering spurs, and why wisteria pruned once a year flowers badly.
Roots in a container sit in a thin shell exposed to sun on all sides, and root temperature — not air temperature — is what damages them. What actually cooks a pot, and the cheap fixes.
How to use less water and get better results — timing, depth, mulching and where watering actually matters most.