Why did my plant suddenly collapse and die?
A plant that was fine last week and flat this week has had its plumbing cut — the short list of things that do that, checked from the ground up.
Seasonal, practical gardening for people with a normal garden and a normal amount of time. Timings are given for a temperate northern-hemisphere climate — adjust for yours.
687 guides
A plant that was fine last week and flat this week has had its plumbing cut — the short list of things that do that, checked from the ground up.
Telling codling moth from apple sawfly by the damage they leave, and the traps, hygiene and timing that reduce the population without spraying a tree in flower.
The four things about a basket that make it dry faster than any pot on the ground, and the changes that halve the watering.
Why supermarket basil collapses within a fortnight, and the light, water and pinching regime that keeps a plant going all summer.
The four reasons paving holds water — no fall, the wrong fall, blocked joints and nowhere to drain to — and which of them you can fix without relaying.
Spinach bolts on daylength rather than heat, which is why it behaves completely differently from lettuce — and why the answer is when you sow, not how you water.
Working through age, pollination, frost, pruning and biennial bearing in the order that identifies most cases without guesswork.
Working through light, feeding, pruning, suckers and rose replant disease to find why a rose produces growth and no blooms.
Why a pot with no hole kills plants that look thirsty, how to use a decorative container that cannot be drilled, and when a saucer helps and when it does not.
The autumn clean that decides how well a greenhouse performs all winter — glass, overlaps, gutters, frame and floor — and why the light gain is worth the afternoon it takes.
The three-winter programme that turns an overgrown, unpickable apple tree back into a productive one, and the quarter-of-the-crown rule that stops it turning into a thicket.
Planting from sets and cloves, the cold period garlic needs, and drying the crop so it stores.
The long-season winter brassica that gives its crop in the hungry gap — sowing early enough, standing it through winter, and picking to keep it producing for weeks.
Acclimatising indoor-grown plants to outdoor conditions over a week or two, and why skipping it kills them.
The season, the rootball size and the aftercare that decide whether a moved shrub survives, plus the plants that will not tolerate it at all.
Sequencing sowings, rotating crops and planning for a spread of harvests rather than one glut.
The three cuts that matter, when each type of fruit tree should be pruned, and why less is usually better.
The three-cut method that stops the bark tearing, where the final cut goes, and the point at which this becomes a job for a professional.
A feeding year that separates the three completely different regimes — open ground, containers, and things you want to flower and fruit — plus the date after which nitrogen does harm.
What is actually in these products, what the real exposure route is, how long to keep everyone off, and the low-chemical alternatives that suit a garden with a dog in it.
The three stages of root congestion, the signs that identify each, and why circling roots have to be cut rather than teased apart.
A bolting rhubarb crown is telling you something about its age or its conditions — cut the spike out at once, and read what triggered it.
The plants that genuinely thrive on clay rather than merely survive it, and the reasoning that lets you judge anything not on the list.
The four kinds of crown work, what each is actually for, and why topping — cutting a tree off at a height — creates a more dangerous tree than the one you started with.