How do I plant a hanging basket that lasts all summer?
Basket size, the liner and reservoir, a compost mix that does not dry out by lunchtime, and the feeding regime that keeps it flowering into September.
Choosing, planting and keeping things alive.
150 guides in Garden
Basket size, the liner and reservoir, a compost mix that does not dry out by lunchtime, and the feeding regime that keeps it flowering into September.
Hole size, planting depth and the watering regime that gets a new plant through its first two years.
Roots in a container sit in a thin shell exposed to sun on all sides, and root temperature — not air temperature — is what damages them. What actually cooks a pot, and the cheap fixes.
Why continuity from February to November matters more than any particular plant, which flower shapes different pollinators can actually reach, and the popular plants that offer nothing.
The six classes of rose sold in the UK, what each one actually does in a garden, and why the class you buy commits you to a particular pruning job for the life of the plant.
The four causes in order of likelihood — wrong-time pruning, late frost, too much shade or too much nitrogen — and how to tell which one it was.
Why most garden tulips are effectively annuals in British conditions, the four things that make the difference, and the types that genuinely do return year after year.
The five reasons a container needs watering twice a day, and the changes that halve it — pot size, material, compost, mulch and where it stands.
Reading plant labels properly, matching them to your conditions, and judging quality at the nursery.
The midsummer stall that catches almost every container gardener — running out of feed — and the three other causes that look identical.
Six trained forms compared on ground space, wall space, pruning commitment and which fruits each one suits — including why plums and cherries are never cordons.
Choosing rootstock and form for a small space, planting properly, and the pollination question that catches people out.
Why they die within a fortnight, and the splitting and repotting that turns one pot into several lasting plants.
Indoor plants face a combination nothing outdoors does — glass magnifying the light, no air movement, and very dry air. Which of those is actually damaging yours, and what to change.
Reading which leaves are affected — oldest or newest — to separate the mobile nutrients from the immobile ones, and what each pattern actually means.
Why the ground under a tree is the hardest place in a garden, the planting technique that works there, and the plants that genuinely cope.
Why potash rather than nitrogen is the fruit grower's feed, the late-winter timing that matters, and the mulching and grass-free circle that do more than any fertiliser.
The four mechanisms climbers use to attach themselves, what support each one physically requires, and why a new climber sitting in a heap at the bottom of a wall is nearly always a support problem rather than a plant problem.
The traits that make a plant a good long-term container subject, the reliable performers for a British patio, and the popular ones that will not do it however well you look after them.
The five causes of blind daffodils in the order they are worth checking, why congestion is the commonest, and the lift-and-divide job that fixes a clump that has stopped performing.
The four things about a basket that make it dry faster than any pot on the ground, and the changes that halve the watering.
Why supermarket basil collapses within a fortnight, and the light, water and pinching regime that keeps a plant going all summer.
Working through light, feeding, pruning, suckers and rose replant disease to find why a rose produces growth and no blooms.
Why a pot with no hole kills plants that look thirsty, how to use a decorative container that cannot be drilled, and when a saucer helps and when it does not.