How do I deal with box tree caterpillar?
Telling caterpillar damage from box blight, the monitoring and treatment cycle that keeps box alive, and the point at which replacing the plant is the sensible answer.
Diagnosing what's eating, wilting or spotting your plants.
102 guides in Garden
Telling caterpillar damage from box blight, the monitoring and treatment cycle that keeps box alive, and the point at which replacing the plant is the sensible answer.
The edge of the spot tells you what made it — round with a firm margin, angular and stopped by the veins, or fading out with no margin at all.
A plant that was fine last week and flat this week has had its plumbing cut — the short list of things that do that, checked from the ground up.
Telling codling moth from apple sawfly by the damage they leave, and the traps, hygiene and timing that reduce the population without spraying a tree in flower.
Recognising blight early, the conditions that trigger it, and the growing choices that avoid it entirely.
Basal rot explained through the arrangement that causes it — planting depth, mulch against the stem, water pooling and a strimmer wound.
Separating box blight, box tree caterpillar, winter bronzing and drought, since three of the four look similar and need entirely different responses.
Distortion is caused at the growing point, days before you see it — separating aphids, capsid bug, mite, weedkiller, virus and cold from one another.
How to read a garden pesticide label for edible crops, what homemade soap sprays actually do, and why the non-chemical answer is usually also the more effective one.
Six causes of brown patches in a leylandii or cypress hedge, how to tell them apart, and the uncomfortable fact that most of them cannot be reversed.
A plant that is alive but static is nearly always short of root room, root health, light or warmth — checked in that order, cheapest first.
The three routes weedkiller reaches a plant it was never aimed at, how to recognise each pattern, and the honest timescale for recovery.
Telling the two apart, why the conditions that suit each are opposite, and the biological controls that actually work under glass.
Two problems with similar names that need opposite conditions and opposite responses — which surface each grows on, and why one is far harder to stop.
When removing a damaged leaf helps the plant, when it costs the plant more than the damage did, and how to trim one without making it worse.
The rot that spreads by touch through a cluster and overwinters in the mummified fruit left hanging — and why removing those mummies is the whole of the control.
Grey mould thrives on contact, damp and still air — so the fixes are all physical: get the fruit off the soil, get air through the plants, and never water over the top.
Identifying the predator larvae that get squashed by mistake, and why spraying a plant that already has them usually makes the infestation worse.
Which predator or parasite goes against which greenhouse pest, the temperature and timing each one needs, and the single rule that decides whether the release works.
Why molehills appear in flushes, which deterrents genuinely do nothing, and the realistic options for a lawn.
Physical barriers and deterrents that work, applied humanely, plus the ones that reliably do nothing.
Why cherries are the hardest fruit to protect, the netting that works without trapping birds, and the tree size and form decisions that make protection possible at all.
Whether the mottle respects the veins, repeats identically and relates to anything at all — the test that separates virus from nutrients, variegation and scorch.
The fungal disease behind cracked, corky black patches on apples and olive blotches on the leaves, why wet springs make it bad, and the leaf clearance that breaks its cycle.