Why do plants grow badly in one part of my garden?
How to read a bad corner — light, wind, water, roots, buried ground and old contamination — and decide whether to fix the site or change the planting.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 25 min
- Read
- 4 min
Short answer
Watch the area at three times: mid-morning, mid-afternoon and the day after heavy rain. Between them, those observations catch shade, rain shadow, wind funnel and drainage, which is nearly every cause. Then dig a hole to check what is underneath before you conclude anything about the soil.
Gardens are not uniform. A twenty-metre plot can hold a frost pocket, a rain shadow, a wind funnel, a bone-dry root zone and a permanently wet corner, and the difference in growing conditions between two ends of one border can be larger than the difference between two counties.
Step by step
- Count the hours of direct sun the area actually gets.Look at it at mid-morning, midday and mid-afternoon on a clear day and note whether the sun is on it. Most people badly overestimate. Under four hours is shade for practical purposes, and a great many plants sold as full sun will simply sulk there.
- Check the aspect and what casts the shade.Shade from a wall is dry and dense but constant. Shade from a deciduous tree is seasonal, and lets in a spring window that bulbs and woodlanders exploit. Shade from an evergreen is year-round and usually combined with dry, root-filled soil.
- Look for a rain shadow.The ground within about a metre of a wall or fence, particularly on the sheltered side, receives a fraction of the rainfall the open garden does. Under an overhang or a dense evergreen, effectively none. Plants there need watering all summer regardless of the weather.
- Go out the day after heavy rain.Standing water, a squelching surface, moss on the soil and a sour smell all mean the roots there spend days without air after every downpour. This is the single most common cause of a corner where nothing thrives.
- Find the tree and hedge roots.A mature tree or a hedge takes enormous quantities of water and nutrients from a radius well beyond its canopy, and the top spit of soil there can be a solid mat of fine roots. Push a fork in — if it will not go in easily, that is the answer.
- Watch what the wind does.Wind funnels between buildings, over a low fence and along a side passage, and constant wind dries leaves faster than roots can supply, shreds soft growth and stunts everything. A corner that is always brown on one side is a wind problem, not a feeding problem.
- Dig, and find out what is under it.Around new-build houses in particular, topsoil is often thin over compacted subsoil and buried rubble. Dig a hole 45cm deep and look at what comes out. If the second spit is grey, hard and structureless, no amount of feeding will help until it is broken up.
- Consider what used to be there.A shed base, a path, a bonfire, a mixing spot for concrete, a place where weedkiller was stored. Cement leaves the soil alkaline, a bonfire site leaves it sterile and salty, and both persist for years.
- Decide honestly between fixing and adapting.Drainage, compaction and thin soil can be fixed with real work. Shade from a neighbour's tree, a rain shadow, a wind funnel and a frost pocket usually cannot, and the sane response is to plant things that suit those conditions rather than fight them annually.
Tips
- Look at what grows there by itself. Moss and buttercup mean wet; nettles mean fertile and disturbed; a bare patch under a conifer means dry and dark. The weeds are a free soil survey.
- Raised beds solve compaction, thin soil and drainage in one move and are often less work than trying to correct the ground.
- A frost pocket at the bottom of a slope can be several degrees colder than the top on a still night. Move tender plants uphill rather than protecting them where they are.
- In a rain shadow, mulch is doing very little because there is no rain to conserve. Watering and a drip line are what work there.
Common mistakes
- Feeding a difficult area repeatedly — Almost none of these causes are nutritional. Feed added to a waterlogged, compacted or root-filled spot does nothing and can scorch.
- Assuming a north-facing area is hopeless — North-facing beds are cool, even and often moist, which suits an enormous number of good plants. The genuinely hard shade is dry shade under a conifer, and that is a different problem.
- Digging one improved hole in bad ground — It becomes a sump in clay and a dry pocket in sand. Improve an area or accept the ground and choose plants for it.
Questions people ask
Should I get my soil tested?
A pH test is cheap and answers a real question, particularly if you are trying acid-lovers or you suspect building contamination. Nutrient testing is worth it for a vegetable plot and rarely changes anything in an ornamental border.
How long does new-build soil take to come right?
Longer than people expect. Compacted subfloor material with a thin skin of topsoil needs breaking up mechanically and several years of organic matter before it behaves like garden soil. Raised beds buy you those years.