Which clematis pruning group do I have?
Identifying a clematis group from when it flowers, and what each group needs — with the safe approach for a plant you cannot identify at all.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 30 min
- Read
- 3 min
Short answer
Note the month it flowers. Before May is group one, cut back only after flowering if at all. May to June is group two, tidy lightly in late winter to the topmost fat buds. July onwards is group three, cut hard to 200 to 300mm in late winter.
Every clematis pruning question comes down to whether it flowers on wood made last year or wood made this year, and the flowering month is a completely reliable proxy for that.
What you'll need
- Secateurs
- Plant label or a note of the flowering month (optional)
Step by step
- Record when it flowers.Note the month on a label or your phone. If you do not know, leave the plant unpruned for a season and watch. One lost season is cheaper than cutting off two.
- Identify group one.Flowers before May on last year's wood. Montana, alpina, macropetala, armandii and cirrhosa. Very vigorous in the case of montana.
- Prune group one barely at all.Immediately after flowering, cut back only what has outgrown its space or is tangled and dead. Pruning it in winter removes the flowers.
- Identify group two.Large flowers in May and June on last year's wood, often with a smaller second flush in late summer. Most of the big-flowered named hybrids — 'Nelly Moser', 'The President', 'Multi Blue' — are here.
- Prune group two lightly in late winter.February. On each stem, work down from the top removing dead and weak growth until you reach a strong pair of fat buds, and cut just above them. That is all.
- Identify group three.Flowers from July onwards on growth made this year. Viticella, jackmanii, texensis, orientalis and the herbaceous types.
- Prune group three hard in late winter.February, cut every stem down to a strong pair of buds roughly 200 to 300mm above the ground. It looks brutal and it is exactly right.
- Use the safe default when you do not know.Prune lightly after the first flowering flush, as if it were group two. You will get flowers on almost any clematis and lose very little.
- Mulch and feed after pruning.Clematis are hungry. A mulch of compost kept clear of the stems and a spring feed makes a substantial difference to flowering.
- Keep the roots cool and shaded.Clematis want their heads in sun and their roots in shade. A slab, low planting or a mulch over the root area is the traditional and effective approach.
Tips
- The flowering month tells you the group. Nothing else is needed.
- If in doubt, prune lightly after the first flush — the safe default for all three groups.
- Write the month on a label. You will not remember next February.
Common mistakes
- Cutting a montana back hard in winter — It flowers on last year's wood, so a winter cut removes the entire display. Montana is pruned after flowering and only when it has outgrown its space.
- Leaving a group three clematis unpruned — It becomes a bare tangle with all the growth and flowers at the top and nothing at eye level. These types need cutting to near ground level every year.
If it doesn't work
Bare at the base, flowers only high up
Cause: Group three left unpruned — Fix: Cut to 200 to 300mm in late winter. It will regrow completely in one season.
No flowers after a winter prune
Cause: Group one or two cut at the wrong time — Fix: Leave it alone next winter and prune only after flowering.
Whole stem wilts and dies suddenly
Cause: Clematis wilt, not pruning — Fix: Cut the affected stem to the ground and dispose of it. Plant deeply next time so it can reshoot from below ground.
Weak growth and few flowers in any group
Cause: Hungry, dry roots or hot root run — Fix: Mulch the root area, shade it, and feed in spring.
Questions people ask
What if I do not know which clematis I have?
Prune lightly straight after the first flush of flowers. That approach is acceptable for all three groups and costs you very little in any of them.
When do I prune a montana?
After it has flowered, in early summer, and only to control size. Never in winter, because that is when the flower buds are sitting on the plant.
Can I cut group three right to the ground?
To a strong pair of buds about 200 to 300mm up, which is close enough to the ground to look drastic. It regrows and flowers the same summer.