How do I wallpaper a wall?

Wallpapering fails in predictable places: the first drop wasn't plumb, so everything after it drifts; the paste dried before the paper was positioned; or the seams were overlapped rather than butted. Get those three right and the rest is patience.

What you'll need

• Wallpaper (plus 10–15% for pattern matching)
• Paste appropriate to the paper type
• Pasting table, brush and smoothing brush
• Plumb line or long spirit level
• Sharp knife with snap-off blades, straight edge
• Seam roller, sponge, bucket

Step by step

1. Measure the wall and calculate drops, allowing 10cm extra per drop and extra for the pattern repeat.A large pattern repeat can add substantially to the quantity — check the repeat length on the roll label.
2. Prepare the wall: fill, sand, and size it (or apply diluted paste) and let it dry.Sizing stops the wall sucking moisture out of the paste before you can slide the paper into position.
3. Mark a plumb line one roll-width from the corner, using a plumb bob or long level.Never start against a corner — corners are rarely vertical and the error compounds across the wall.
4. Cut the first drop with the extra allowance, paste it (or the wall, for paste-the-wall papers), and let it soak if the instructions say so.Soak times matter: hanging too soon causes bubbles, too late causes shrinkage and open seams.
5. Hang the drop to the plumb line, leaving the overlap top and bottom, and brush from the centre outwards.Centre outwards and downwards pushes air to the edges rather than trapping it.
6. Trim top and bottom with a sharp blade against a straight edge.Change the blade every few cuts. A dull blade tears wet paper instead of cutting it.
7. Hang the next drop butted tightly against the first, matching the pattern before smoothing.Butt, never overlap. Overlapped seams cast a shadow line and lift as they dry.
8. Roll the seams lightly once the paper has grabbed, and sponge off any paste from the face.Paste left on the surface dries shiny and shows, particularly on matt papers.

Tips

• Turn off the electricity, unscrew socket faceplates slightly and paper over them, then cut a cross and trim — a far neater result than cutting around a fixed plate.
• At internal corners, cut the drop so it turns the corner by about 10mm, then start the next wall on a fresh plumb line.
• Keep a clean damp sponge and a dry cloth to hand throughout, and change the water often.
• Number your drops on the back as you cut them. Pattern-matched drops are not interchangeable.

Common mistakes

• Starting against a corner — Corners aren't plumb, so the pattern drifts progressively across the whole wall.
• Overlapping seams — They shadow, and they lift as the paper dries and shrinks.
• Ignoring the soak time — Both too short and too long cause bubbles or gaps — it's on the label for a reason.
• Not sizing the wall — Paste dries too fast to slide the paper into place, and you cannot pattern-match a sheet you can't move.

Questions people ask