What is a reciprocating saw for and how do I use it?
Where it excels, blade choice by material, and controlling the violent kickback that catches people out.
- Difficulty
- intermediate
- Time
- 30 min
- Read
- 3 min
- Safety
- warning
Short answer
It is a demolition and rough-cut tool, not a finishing one. Match the blade to the material, press the shoe firmly against the work to stop it bouncing, and never cut blind into a wall or floor.
A reciprocating saw removes material fast and crudely. Used for the right jobs it saves hours; used for the wrong ones it destroys the work.
Safety
Step by step
- Know what it is for.Cutting out old timber, pruning branches, cutting pipe and nail-embedded wood, demolition, and awkward access where nothing else fits. Not for straight or visible cuts.
- Choose the blade by material.Coarse teeth and long stroke for wood, fine bi-metal for metal, carbide grit for masonry and cast iron, and a demolition blade for nail-embedded timber.
- Match blade length to the work.The blade must be long enough that the stroke passes right through the material, or it will bind and judder. Too long and it flexes badly.
- Press the shoe firmly against the work.The pivoting shoe is what stops the saw hammering itself backwards. Held away from the work, the tool bounces violently and is hard to control.
- Hold it with both hands.One on the body, one on the trigger grip. This is not a one-handed tool.
- Check what is behind.The blade goes through and keeps going. Cutting into studwork, floors or ceilings without knowing where cables and pipes run is a genuine hazard.
- Start slowly.Blade against the work, then squeeze. Starting at full speed off the surface makes the blade skip and jump.
- Use variable speed.Slower for metal and plastic, faster for timber. Too fast in metal burns the teeth off in seconds.
- Let the blade stop before withdrawing.Pulling a running blade out of a cut catches the edge and jerks the tool.
- Expect blades to be consumable.They bend, blunt and snap. Buy them in packs and change them as soon as cutting slows.
Tips
- Keep the shoe pressed hard against the work. It is what stops the saw bouncing.
- Blade must be long enough to pass fully through the material on each stroke.
- Never cut into a wall, floor or ceiling without knowing what runs behind it.
Common mistakes
- Cutting with the shoe off the work — The tool hammers backwards against you and the blade skips wildly. The shoe transfers the reaction into the workpiece instead of into your arms.
- Using it for a cut that will be seen — It tears and wanders by design. Anything visible needs a circular saw, jigsaw or handsaw.
If it doesn't work
Saw bouncing violently
Cause: Shoe not against the work, or blade too short — Fix: Press the shoe firmly and fit a longer blade.
Blade bending
Cause: Forcing a curve, or blade too thin for the job — Fix: Use a thicker demolition blade and let the saw cut at its own pace.
Blade blunt in seconds on metal
Cause: Speed too high — Fix: Drop the speed and use a bi-metal blade with the right tooth pitch.
Cut wandering badly
Cause: Normal for this tool — Fix: It is not a precision saw. Use a jigsaw or circular saw where the line matters.
Questions people ask
Is a reciprocating saw the same as a sabre saw?
Yes, the names are interchangeable, and some brands use their own trade name. They all describe the same push-pull demolition saw.
Can I use one for pruning?
Yes, with a coarse pruning blade it is very effective on branches up to a reasonable diameter. Watch for the blade catching as the branch moves.
Why does mine judder so much?
Almost always the shoe not being held against the work, or a blade that is too short for the thickness being cut.