How do I take a photo that is actually useful for a claim or listing?
What makes a photo count as evidence, the shots to take in order, and the metadata that matters.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 20 min
- Read
- 3 min
- Safety
- caution
Short answer
Take three shots of everything: wide for context, medium for the item, close for the detail. Include something for scale, get the light right, and take them before anything is moved or cleaned. A single close-up of a scratch proves nothing about where it is.
An evidence photograph has a different job from a nice photograph. It has to establish what, where, how big and when — and most people take only the first.
Safety
Step by step
- Take the wide shot first.The whole room, the whole car, the whole item in its setting. Without context, a close-up of damage could be anywhere, and that is the first thing an assessor or buyer will wonder.
- Then medium, then close.Three distances, every time. Medium establishes which part of the thing; close shows the actual detail. The sequence is what links them together.
- Include something for scale.A coin, a ruler, a hand. A crack photographed close up with nothing beside it could be a millimetre or a centimetre, and that difference matters.
- Photograph before touching anything.Before cleaning, moving or making safe. Insurers and landlords ask about the original state, and once it is tidied the evidence is gone.
- Get the light right.Daylight where possible, and do not stand between the light and the subject. For dents and scratches, light from the side at a shallow angle shows what flat light hides.
- Turn the flash off for glossy surfaces.Flash on a screen, a car panel or anything varnished produces a hotspot that hides exactly the detail you are documenting. Move to a window instead.
- Capture the identifying information.Serial numbers, model plates, registration, meter readings, the label. A separate legible photograph of each — these are the shots people forget and later need.
- Keep the metadata.Photos carry date, time and often location. Do not screenshot them or send in a way that strips it — the timestamp is often the most useful part of the evidence.
- Take more than you need.Storage is free and you cannot go back. Photograph angles that seem unnecessary; one of them usually turns out to matter.
- Photograph what is undamaged too.For a listing or an inventory, showing the good condition of everything else makes the whole record credible rather than selective.
- Check the background before sending.Paperwork, screens, keys, house numbers, other people. All of these appear in photographs and none of them should be in one going to a stranger.
- Keep the originals.Full resolution, in a dated folder, backed up. Send copies. A compressed image forwarded through three apps loses the detail that made it useful.
Tips
- Wide, medium, close — every time. It is the whole method.
- Put a coin in the shot. Scale is what turns a picture of a crack into evidence of a crack.
- Never screenshot an evidence photo. It strips the date and location that give it weight.
Common mistakes
- Only taking close-ups — A close-up proves damage exists but not where it is or how large. Without the wide shot it can be disputed as being from somewhere else.
- Cleaning or moving things first — The original state is what is being assessed, and it cannot be recreated. Photograph before doing anything else.
If it doesn't work
Insurer says photos are not clear enough
Cause: No context shot or no scale — Fix: Retake with wide, medium and close, and an object for scale.
Damage invisible in the photo
Cause: Flat lighting or flash — Fix: Light it from the side at a shallow angle, near a window, with the flash off.
Date of the photo questioned
Cause: Metadata stripped by screenshotting or messaging — Fix: Send the original file, and keep full-resolution copies in a dated folder.
Serial number unreadable
Cause: Photographed as part of a wider shot — Fix: A separate close photograph of every plate and label, straight on.