How do I stop a running toilet?
Why a toilet keeps running into the pan, how to tell whether it's the fill valve or the flush valve, and how to replace either.
- Difficulty
- beginner
- Time
- 40 min
- Read
- 3 min
- Safety
- caution
Short answer
A toilet that runs constantly has either a fill valve that won't shut off, or a flush valve seal letting water through into the pan. Put a little food colouring in the cistern: if colour appears in the pan without flushing, it's the flush valve seal. If the water level rises to the overflow, it's the fill valve.
A running toilet can waste more water than every other leak in a house combined — often hundreds of litres a day, silently. There are only two mechanisms involved, and the food-colouring test tells you which one has failed within ten minutes, which saves buying the wrong part.
Safety
What you'll need
- Replacement fill valve or flush valve seal (once diagnosed)
- Adjustable spanner
- Bucket and sponge
- Food colouring for the test
- Rubber gloves
Step by step
- Take the cistern lid off carefully and set it somewhere safe.They're heavy ceramic and crack easily. Lay it flat, not on edge.
- Add a few drops of food colouring to the cistern water and wait 20 minutes without flushing.This is the diagnostic. Don't skip it — it saves buying the wrong part.
- If coloured water appears in the pan, the flush valve seal has failed.The rubber seal has hardened or a piece of grit is holding it off its seat.
- If the water level rises until it runs into the overflow, the fill valve isn't shutting off.Either the float is set too high, or the valve washer has perished.
- For a fill valve issue, first try lowering the float adjustment.The water should stop about 25mm below the overflow. Often this is the entire fix.
- If adjusting doesn't work, turn off the supply, drain the cistern and replace the fill valve.Modern universal fill valves are inexpensive and fit most cisterns. Note the inlet position — bottom or side entry.
- For a flush valve seal, turn off the supply, drain the cistern and lift out the flush mechanism.Usually a half-turn to release, though close-coupled cisterns may need to be unbolted from the pan first.
- Clean the seat, fit the new seal, reassemble and test through several flushes.Grit on the seat will hold a brand-new seal open just as effectively as a worn one.
Tips
- Note the make and model on the cistern parts before shopping. Universal kits fit most, but not all, and a close-coupled cistern is much more work than a separate one.
- If the fill valve is noisy as well as slow to shut off, replace it rather than adjusting — it's near the end of its life.
- Limescale on the flush valve seat is common in hard water areas. Descale the seat while you have the cistern open.
- Take a photo of the mechanism before dismantling — reassembly order matters more than it looks.
Common mistakes
- Buying parts before diagnosing — Fill valve and flush valve failures look identical from outside the cistern. The dye test takes 20 minutes and removes the guesswork.
- Ignoring it because it's quiet — A slow leak past the flush seal is often silent and still wastes hundreds of litres a day.
- Forcing plastic fittings — Cistern components are brittle and cheap. Cracking the cistern itself is not cheap.
Questions people ask
How much water does a running toilet waste?
A continuously running toilet can waste in the region of 200–400 litres a day. Even a slow seep past a flush seal adds up to a noticeable amount on a metered bill.
Why does my toilet run for a few seconds every so often?
That's 'phantom flushing' — the flush valve seal is letting water past slowly until the level drops enough for the fill valve to top it up. Replace the seal.
Can I just adjust the float?
If the symptom is water running into the overflow, yes, often. If coloured water appears in the pan, adjusting the float will not help — that's the other valve.